Consolidated B-24D LIBERATOR; 1/48 Revell

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That's really big. Wojtek, it's beautiful.

The union was more reinforced and I like to find the way to use rubber bands for this type of work; The tweezers will only make a little more pressure to unite the pieces as best as possible.



The next day I removed the leagues and tweezers. The parts were well joined ... but, ... placing the plane facing forward, you could see the horizontal stabilizer "slightly" tilted ... that is ... it was not completely parallel with the floor! ... what a horror! ...
Immediately I imagined that it would be very evident at the moment of putting the wings and that they were not parallel with respect to the stabilizer .. !!, after suffering a little (thinking about releasing the stabilizer again ), I remembered seeing some kind of corrections to crooked pieces, with the hot air of a hair dryer, ... so I tried very carefully, at minimum speed and at low temperature ...



It's the first time I do this and I'm really happy because it practically was perfectly horizontal ... the gauge does not lie !!

With Vallejo plastic putty, I reshaped a few small cracks in the joints and then repainted them.



The one at the top is a bit wider, so I'll see what's the best way to make it disappear.



... I still feel the thorn in my shoe, not to go forward, to turn back to everything ... and get myself into hell to correct the transparent dome of the back turret ...

I do not know what to do ... it's already a long time in the process of this girl, but I think I will not be quiet my conscience if I do nothing about it, ... is there a psychologist between us ??

 
fubar57 said:
Do you have plastic sheet the same width as the gaps Luis? It comes in a variety of thicknesses.
Click to expand...

I have Geo, I'll find the one that has the thickness I need.
Nevertheless...
How do you see the work of correcting the rear turret ?, will always be worth it, ... could I take the risk and separate all the pieces (remove the stabilizer, remove the turret, separate the 2 transparent pieces), remove the machine guns, scrape the painting the interior and exterior, sanding with # 3000 to # 12000 and polishing (I'll try to simulate a structure of two metal bars, and I'm thinking that for the upper join of the two transparent pieces, simulate another bar along that join).
Work again on repaint, and put everything back in place, well aligned and fill the joints that require it.

Robert is right, I think I will not feel good knowing that I could have made that correction.

What do you think is the best way to carefully separate the parts with the following products?
- Vallejo plastic putty -
- Tamiya Cement (white cover)
- Micro Kristal Klear

With your recommendations, suggestions and experience, it will be easier for me to make the decision to do the right thing.

Gracias por ayudarme en éste embrollo!
(Thank you for helping me in this mess!)
 
Personally, I would leave the turret alone as you might end up making it worse.

However, if you do decide to remove it, I can only offer that, instead of removing the stabilizer, take a thin saw and cut the joint underneath the turret and pull it out the back.
 
Thanks Robert, Andy, Terry and Dr.Huge for their comments and recommendations.
I am encouraging to start the adventure of that repair of the rear turret. :fadein:

I already tried Kirby's first choice regarding the front window of the cockpit without success, so I go with the second option. (Post # 678)

Excelente inicio de semana para todos
 
I DECIDED TO START WITH WHAT I CONSIDER A LITTLE SIMPLE ...

It was not, but I had to give it the necessary time, without losing my head ...

Let the photos speak ...!!



I made the edges have an approximate angle of 45 ° inwards (behind the canopy on each side) ...



... to make a slot where the new window rests ...



...To be continued...
 
Dzień dobry z Meksyku, amigo W.

... after a few tries to have the precise measurement of the new window, as well as improve the way of applying the adhesives; Here is the piece that would end with the work ...



With a pin apply MKK on the inside, taking care not to overtake the frame and notice the adhesive (as in the junction of the rear turret ).

I used a used Tamiya tape, to hold the window as well as possible ... believe me there were many attempts and patience (I'm almost becoming a saint )



Once the MKK is dry, with a toothpick with the tip modified to the required size, apply CA on the inside to the frames and thus give greater strength to the joint.
I removed the tape and with the pin apply CA to the outer frame ...



I cut the surplus by doing some cold tests on the plane, before having the final size ...



This will show the set of windows and canopy on the office of the pilot and co-pilot ...



The same sheet of acetate will use to make the side windows (which as I explained before, will be open on both sides), and I have thought how to do them.
But that will be later because now I plan to work on the rear turret, ...

Gracias por sus comentarios y sugerencias

Luis Carlos
 
Last edited:
Thanks Robert, Terry and Kirby, this first setback seems to be solved better than I expected.
I hope at night to start seeing the back turret.

Best Regards, my friends.
 
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