**** DONE: 1/48 Bf 109G6 - Winter War / Eastern Front WWII

Looking good Dale.

Yep...

Looking good so far Dale

Dale, I didn't get what paints you're using?

Crimea_River said:

Dale, I didn't get what paints you're using?

Click to expand...

hey, Andy,
Kit and decals sheet calls for RLM74/75/76. So, I am using those from Model Masters. While I have my new Vallejos here, I decided to hold off on using those for this scheme. I did not want make that drastic of change for this scheme.

I did find a couple of forums where Crandall had posted info based on talks with Kuhlein and the RLM74/75/76 is claimed there as well. There are discussions about the yellow spinner and fuse ID band being on the bird just before some of the commonly available pics were taken. I have yet to start the final fuse painting, so I just may go back with the full ID band.

Edited: added post from Hyperscale forum by Jerry Crandall about white 7
"Kuhlein's G-6 September 17 2009, 11:44 AM

Hi,
"White 7" Elias Kuhleins G-6 W.Nr. 163269 did have a yellow under cowling. It also,just prior to when the known series of photos were taken, had a yellow spinner and yellow fuselage band. The overpainted fuselage band can be seen in the photos and profiles. See our EagleCals sheet EC#38.
Cheers,
Jerry"
Link is: Plane Talking - HyperScale's Aircraft Scale Model Discussion Forum: Speaking of Errormaster decals, need a opinion on a Bf 109G-6 on this sheet

Ok thanks. Used those before and liked them.

Spray looks good Dale.

Lookin' good Dale!

With all, looks good. The family that flies together...

Ok, guys, I have a pre-emptive question for you all. I have a set of brass barrels for the cowl mounted MGs. As you can see from the pict, the hole is larger than the barrels with minimal plastic "backing". I was pondering just how these need to be mounted. Anyone ever use the brass barrels in the cowl of a 109? Just how do you mount them? I am thinking I would cut the minimal backing away from the cowl (it is NOT glued on yet) and build up a more substantial "bulkhead" that could then be marked and drilled to accommodate the brass barrels properly. But, I wanted to run it by you all to see what ideas you have come up with.

Dale, I sort of ran into that with the Hs, I have the brass 75mm bordkannone but it needs to be mounted into/onto something. My first thought was something like epoxy-putty in the hole, paint flat black and drill hole for cannon. Fortunately the plastic bordkannone that came with the kit was a bit larger diameter and I was able to cut it off and drill a hole to mount the brass cannon onto it

I used brass barrels for my Hase G-10. I left the cowling openings unmodified and used lumps of Milliput to secure the butt ends of the barrels to the inside of the cowling. Sprayed the dried Milliput black to prevent them peeking through from the outside.

Some good ideas there.

Thanks for posting the ideas, all. I do appreciate you all taking the time to do so.

Looking good

Hey, Guys,
I have the basic painting done. I still have a ton to do with the fuse sides "splotching" (BTW, is there a better term?)and griming her up. I had a couple of stumbles with the soft edging on the fuse top with some overspraying, but I think I got it all sorted out reasonably. Far from perfect, but I am ok with the progress to this point. I noodled over how to get the boundary on the fuse sides nailed down. What I wound up doing was copying the decal sheet (scaling it up to get close to that actual model size). I then took a pen and traced over the boundary as best as I could. I then cut out the lower half. I rolled out some BluTac, stuck it to the fuse sides and then stuck the copies to the BluTac (pics 1 2).




For the finish shown here, I sprayed on the lighter grey 1st with the focus being on the sides. No deep focus on the top to prevent overspraying into the fuse sides. I was able to get the top covered by upping the paint flow with just a slight tilt to the fuse from both sides. I let this dry and came back with BluTac to prep for the darker grey on the fuse. Again, I was careful to avoid overspraying onto the fuse sides. I wound up slipping a couple of pipe cleaners into the gap on top of the BluTac to prevent inadvertent overspray. I was able to get a decent paint job done. Just nice and slow and easy. A little thinking things through and she seems to look ok. Pics follow:





I will have to do a touch up on the ID band. I got a tad over board when I cut the top of the masking tape off. So, a dollop of Mr Filler 500 and a touch of sanding and a respray will be needed.

I plan to start on the remaining work on the fuse sides tomorrow. Again, nice and slow and patient. One slip here will mean a significant cost of repainting. Nice and slow.... Nice and slow, nice and slow..... repeat after me....

EDIT: Yellow ID band is now fixed and resprayed. The Mr Surfacer 500 was the perfect solution for my heavy handedness. Letting everything dry overnight for now. Off to bed. I should start back on the painting just after church in the morning.

Andy, one question for you. Just how do you get that wonderful exhaust staining with your airbrush? I am trying to decide on the airbrush or the Tamiya weathering pastel kits I have. I am very comfortable with the pastels, but I am dying to try a painted thing as well. I have plenty of card stock to use for practice.

Ok, I am about done with the basic finish painting. I am going to let everything dry tonight. I need to pop the top cowl off, it is just placed on the model (nice snug fit) and put the exhaust stacks back in place and then get the brass gun barrels in place. Place it back on and get a clear coat on. Get the decals on next. Flat coat and then begin to dirty her a fair amount.

Nice very very nice.

That's looking very good Dale. Slow and patient is the right attitude and it shows.

The airbrushed exhaust stains aren't very hard. Again, it's best to practice the technique first but basically I start the brush at the exhaust stacks very tight to the surface to get a good concentration. As I move away from the exhaust stacks, I also move away from the surface of the model which widens the pattern and diffuses the paint. You need to take care that you follow the correct pattern of the exhaust stain so that it looks realistic. Study as many pictures as you can. You'll notice on the 109 that the port exhaust was deflected under the supercharger intake by a piece of bent sheet metal which was not present on the starboard side so the stains look a bit different.

At first I thought 'Oh my god all that yellow' then I realised it was the masking.

She certainly is coming up a treat Dale.