**** DONE: 1/48 RAE SE.5a From WW1 to WW2 GB

Discussion in '#16 From WW1 to WW2' started by Vic Balshaw, Nov 1, 2012.

  1. Vic Balshaw

    Vic Balshaw Well-Known Member

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    #1 Vic Balshaw, Nov 1, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Nov 1, 2012
    Username: Vic Balshaw
    First name: Vic
    Category: Judge – Non competing
    Scale: 1/48
    Manufacturer: Roden Kit No 149

    Extras: I would like to say OOB but this kit lends itself to a bit of added detail with the cockpit and the rigging. I'll be attempting to use Bob's Buckles with very fine aluminium tubing (0.3 or 0.4mm ID) and silver invisible thread for the rigging.

    I propose to do this model for my 56 Squadron flight line. I have already got one SE.5a (B8491/'white G') in this line-up dedicated to Capt J T B McCudden VC, DSO Bar, MC Bar, MM which I have been wanting to duplicate for a number of years. This SE.5a was one of my very early builds with cotton thread for the rigging so I feel it's time to update it. Again, Capt McCudden SE.5a B4891/'white 6' as flown from Baizieux airfield, France in February 1918is my chosen subject which sports the a red spinner. This spinner was removed from a LVG-CV which McCuddens shot downed on 30 November 1917. Capt McCudden claimed 33 victories in this machine.

    20121010-1a.jpg

    20121010-1b.jpg

    20121010-1c.jpg

    20121010-1g.jpg

    This is my original SE.5a built way back when last century.

    20121010-1d.jpg

    These are the little itty bitty bits for the rigging. The twisty things are Bob' Buckles 1/48 scale and the shims were cut to 1.5mm from a strip of 0.6mm OD -0.4mm ID nickel silver tube from Albion Alloy.

    20121010-1e.jpg

    And my initial attempt to see if the buckle and shim idea works. It took me a couple of hours to get that thread back trough the shim. This shim was only 0.3mm ID but believe me that extra 0.1mm on the internal diameter has made a whole heap of deference. The one in the pic above only to about 30 seconds to thread. I'm hoping it was not a fluke.

    20121010-1f.jpg
     
  2. Wurger

    Wurger Siggy Master
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  3. N4521U

    N4521U Well-Known Member

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    This is gonna be a bit exciting to watch.......
     
  4. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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    I'll say. Always like the SE 5a.
     
  5. woody

    woody Active Member

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    Another good one i will be watching and learning Vic.
     
  6. meatloaf109

    meatloaf109 Well-Known Member

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    I will also! Got a few wires myself on the Curtiss, I was thinking of the old "drill and pull" method, but this looks interesting. How do you tighten the wires at the other end?
     
  7. Lucky13

    Lucky13 Forum Mascot

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    Gonna love this one! Got two different SE.5's from Roden! Great looking kits!
     
  8. Rogi

    Rogi Active Member

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    hmmm...You've tempted me Vic to do a Russian Se.5a :D , can't wait to see how this beauty turns out :D
     
  9. T Bolt

    T Bolt Well-Known Member

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    Looks like a real nice kit Vic
     
  10. A4K

    A4K Well-Known Member

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    Very nice Vic!

    Please tell me if you need a home for the spare prop too! :)
     
  11. Vic Balshaw

    Vic Balshaw Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for your comments guys. I did a bit of digging today and came up with these few photographs.

    Captain James Thomas Byford McCudden. He joined 56 Squadron in August 15 1917 and took command of 'B' Flight. He was the squadron's most successful pilot, scoring fifty-two of his fifty-seven victories while with the squadron.

    20121009-1a.jpg

    Capt McCudden in his SE.5a.

    20121009-1b.jpg

    Three views of McCudden' SE.5a B4891/6 with the red spinner, the first showing Flt Sgt F. Clark and Sgt V.L. Reeves, second with the man himself, McCudden and the third just his SE.5a. McCudden claimed that the spinner gave him and extra 3mph speed. These pictures were possibly take as McCudden was about to leave 56 Squadron in March 1918.

    20121009-1c.jpg

    20121009-1d.jpg

    20121009-1e.jpg

    Pictures taken from Alex Revell's book 'High in the Empty Blue - The History of 56 Squadron RFC/RAF 1916-1919.'
     
  12. Vic Balshaw

    Vic Balshaw Well-Known Member

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    Sorry Paul, forgot to answer your question. Truth is mate, it’s a secret, so secret I've yet to work out how to do it, but I have a plan…………..
     
  13. meatloaf109

    meatloaf109 Well-Known Member

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    A cunning plan?
    I can wait.
     
  14. ccheese

    ccheese Member In Perpetuity
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    Oh boy... gotta watch this...

    Charles
     
  15. vikingBerserker

    vikingBerserker Well-Known Member

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    Awesome choice!
     
  16. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    This should be a really good one! Vic, what do you use to cut the tube, without crushing the ends?
     
  17. Vic Balshaw

    Vic Balshaw Well-Known Member

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    Many thanks for the comments guys and I made a little start on it today, but before posting this a little word of warning about the kit................Jan please take note.

    The kit though good with plenty of choices is well moulded with just a hint of mould markings and flash but it is made of very soft plastic which on the major parts is not much of a problem but I have found that the delicate parts bend very easy and are easily broken.

    I have never tried to replicate wood before so have decided to have a go with this kit. I’m going to use oil paints in an effort to duplicate wood grain.
    My initial step was to pick out the main parts associated with wood and give them a coat of matt paint as a base.

    20121103-1a.jpg

    Once dry this given a couple of coats of Future which I will leave fort 24 hours to cure.

    20121103-1b.jpg

    The next step is to cover this with a brown, maybe burnt umber oil pain for the base and a lighter oil paint for the cockpit walls and instrument panel.

    Foot note: My thanks to old Bill (N4521U) for a bit of help with sorting my pictures out through Corel.
     
  18. Vic Balshaw

    Vic Balshaw Well-Known Member

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    Terry, in answer to your question, cutting the tube is quite easy, it was getting them all to be 1.5mm long was more difficult.

    For the benefit of you all, here is a pictorial demo of how it was done.

    First up I set my callipers as near as possible to 1.5mm. Then taking the tube, but the end against one side of the callipers.

    20121103-2b.jpg

    20121103-2a.jpg

    With the pipe still hard against the callipers, take a sharp craft knife and position it on the pipe up against the other side of the callipers. Holding the knife in position, remove the callipers and then lightly and slowly roll the pipe back and forth under the knife blade.

    20121103-2c.jpg

    20121103-2d.jpg

    After a few passes the blade will cut through the pipe leaving a nice clean cut and a piece of pipe just the size you want.


    20121103-2e.jpg
     
  19. Wayne Little

    Wayne Little Well-Known Member

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    Excellent do it the same way, with a light sanding on the end to clean up...do you sometimes press a tad hard and have the odd one shoot off into space never to be seen again? 'nuff said I 'spose...
     
  20. rochie

    rochie Well-Known Member

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    nice work Vic
     
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