DONE: F4U-1A of Lt. Bill Case of VMF-214, Group Build... (1 Viewer)

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Here you are these FS and Testor ( Model Master ) paint numbers , notice please that the ANA 606 and ANA 607 are the same but the difference is that ANA 606 is semi matt but ANA 607 matt finish only.:

ANA 606 Semi-Gloss Sea Blue FS 35042 - MM 1717
ANA 607 Non-Specular Sea Blue FS 25042 - MM 1717
ANA 608 Non-Specular Intermediate Blue FS 35164 - MM 1720
Thanks for the info Wojtek.... What about the white no specular???
 
Ughhhh......

Im feeling ill, sore throat/coughing bullsh!t.... I got tomorrow off so Ill try and get some work done on the 109....

Question.... I know some of u guys wash ur parts while still on the sprues..... Can someone explain how u do this and why???? Do u use soap, do u dry the parts with a towel??? Do u soak them for minutes???
 
Injection molds are sprayed with a thinned-out mold-release oil to ensure no parts get stuck in the molds. It remains on the parts and could prevent paint adhesion. Dish detergent and a small 1-inch paint brush work fine. Rinse well.
 
F! I just refreshed by accident instead of hitting command+t to open a new tab. Here we go again!

Now that I've worked my way through it a bit, some advice.

1. Make sure you line the engine up properly! It's hard to do, and if you don't you'll find out as soon as you try to put it in the plane. Needless to say, I found out the hard way...

2. Buy some plastic card! You'll need it to remake the front wheel well covers as they are completely incorrectly shaped, as are the holes in the bottoms of the wings, but that requires major surgery that if you screw up on it you're toast.

3. The Corsair had a spring-loaded joystick, so don't use the photoetch hinges on the ailerons or elevators. Neither would be anywhere but centered when on the ground. I also don't suggest using them on the other flaps if you're not doing flaps down as my previous experience with them has led me to nothing but floppy flap syndrome.

4. If you ARE doing flaps down, DO NOT GLUE THE FLAPS TOGETHER that are on the inside of the wing, ie anything inside of the fold. It tells you to, but you should be able to see the little square piece in between the flaps.

F08.jpg


You can see them in that picture.

4. You will need to fill the rocket stub holes in the bottom of the wing as well as the holes where the pylons go on the bottom of the wing root as you're doing a -1A, which had neither of these. You'll also need to paint brackets on the canopy.

Thus far, it's been a good kit, and it's fit together nicely. Some filling will be needed on the center-line seam, but that's expected.

Oh, one last thing. I don't know how you plan on dealing with the cockpit floor, but it's kind of integral to the structure so I just painted it black hoping nobody will see it.
 
That last pic in the review Dan. It might just be the angle, but the prop seems a bit strange, as if it's sitting too far forward or something - can't quite figure out what's wrong. Maybe it's the shape of the gearbox, or maybe the prop spline is too long? Might be worthwhile checking it out before you commit to fitting the prop.
 
Hmmm, interesting Terry, gonna have to research that some....

Cory, Im not really sure Im getting what ur saying... If u did that, there wouldnt be any gap between the flaps, which would look worse off as opposed to using the stock piece....

Heres the shot usin the coke can method....
cowl-flaps-2.jpg
 
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