**** DONE: Revell 1/48 P-40B RAF 112 Squadron in Egypt in 1941 MTO Group Build

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Ok, Wojtek I'm an idiot. There are like tiny cylinders on the engine that are the guns and the coverings get glued on top. Anyways I added the right and left stabilizer to the plane. The next step in the directions is the tail wheel. It'll be painted today most likely.
 

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I see Harrison. But there is still too less of light and your pictures are too dark.You have to take pictures of an object that is lightened from the side you want to take a pic but not from the back. The best example is the third pic above. the part of the pic on its left side is visible ( although there wasn't as much light as it should be) but the right one is almost black looking at the vertical stabilizer.
 
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Wojtek is right about the pics Harrison - try to light them from the angle where you're taking the pic. Don't rely on flash alone, as this can 'wash out' detail etc.
Concerning the filler; the first pics you posted showed the gap at the fuselage joint as much less than in the later pics, so Wojtek is right again - CA would have been better. But, I think Wojtek is again right, in that the fitting of the fuselage halves could have been better - possibly caused by mis-alignment of some of the internal parts. Always test fit and check alignment.
The 'mix' of the 'porridge' filler looks about right, but the idea is to run this into the gap, wiping off any excess, then repeating as required. It'll make it much easier to sand afterwards, and the first application will form a 'bridge' in the gap. The 'porridge' is great for very small joints or gaps, where putty or other fillers would be difficult or impossible to apply without lots of excess all over the place, as it's intended to run into the gap, build up, and then harden. But for larger gaps, a 'stiffer' filler is required, from CA glue to something like 'Milliput'.
As for the fitting of parts, it's essential to check every area of a kit before commencing work, in order to know 'what's what', and where, and how, other parts should fit. Always spend time test fitting before even thinking about construction, as this will, or should, indicate any potential problem areas or defects, which can be corrected, or allowed for, before the assembly. The time spent doing this is never wasted, and actually saves a lot of time, frustration and possibly a ruined model in the long run.
Test fit, test fit and more test fit!!
 
No not really. This is your first Aircraft model and you are doing things you've never seen before. Mistakes are bound to happen.

Forums are great to help you in learning new skills but I find that I need to see what people are talking about. It goes a lot farther then words alone. Airframes posted some instructions not to long ago and they were great because he had pictures to go with it.

Another valuable tool is youtube. There are guys there that make videos of different skills like preshading etc. I use them all the time.

Again keep in mind this is your first and its biggest value is that you learned from this kit. Finish it, put it on the shelf and use it as a bench mark for your next one. You'll see improvement with each model you do.

That's just my two cents
 
Thanks Dirk! I have seen a lot of youtube videos that are helpful, there's this one by a guy, who builds 1/32 WWII aircraft and gives reviews etc. But I like the forum too! Lots of guys here are great, and full of info!
 
Dirk is absoulutely right Harrison, and you didn't screw up. There's nothing wrong with your model, and it will turn out fine, especially for a very first attempt. The thing is, you've learned something here - that there is more than one way to complete a particular task, in the case the filling, and the preparation before hand.
The good thing is, you are asking questions, and listening to the replies; many people ask, then just get on with the job, not waiting for the reply, or not taking it all on board when proivided. The model will be good for a first attempt, it's just taking a slightly more complex path. You will have learned from this, and will know how to tackle a similar job in the future which, with practice and experience, is how anyone becomes good at anything they wish to attempt.
Your next aircraft model will be even better, and the next one better again, and so on.
Keep it up, you're doing ok mate!
 
Dirk is right Harrison. It must be your work.If you aren't sure what you have to do you can ask about a way or for a help.But if you make something by yourself this is the purpose.Step by step you will get some experience for the further work. So keep your working on and ask when you need.

Remember the main rule of modelling says " try to fit three times , glue once".
 
What color is the part labeled 20, suppose to be colored? It's the tail wheel door. And there you can see I painted the outside of the tail wheel.
 

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I suppose the part labeled with number 20 in the instruction is the one at the bottom of pics. The P-40 tail wheel bay doors looked like a small wings when were opened.Here you are a few pics. So these opened doors showed two colours, On upper surfaces it was the colour of an aircraft undersides and on lower ( inner ) surfaces it was the fuselage interior green ( Yellow Zinc Chromate ) I believe..
These two last pics are of late P-40 variant. The first one is of P-40B/C.
 

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Thanks a ton Wojtek! So the inside interior green and the outside, the Azure blue, is there a way I can make my own Azure paint? I have sea blue paint that's dark.. Thanks again!
 
Yes you are correct, inside interior green and outside azure blue.

Of course there is a way to get the Azure Blue colour. But you have to show me the sea blue paint sample firstly.You know like we did with the green cockpit one. A pic on white cartonboard please.
 

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