**** DONE: Spitfire MkVIII, 136 Squadron RAF, Burma, 1944, Commonwealth GB.

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Looking very good there Terry.I went back to about pg 8 and pulled forward your codes came out nice :thumbleft: I haven't paided much attention for the fact I am all 109 and Spit out from all the GB and hence my last couple builds have been different subjects.If memory serves me right this a consignment build? for relatives or friends replicating there father's plane?Will keep up the good work old boy. Cheers
 
Thanks guys.
Kevin, yes, this is a commission build, for family members of Bob Cross, highest-scoring RAF pilot in SEAC. The full story is now in a PDF on the first page of this thread.
Had a message from Max whilst he was at the NA today. As I suspected, all entries in the Squadron ORB and the Combat Reports show only individual code letters. The film might reveal some snippets of info, if only to confirm I'm in the right area regarding codes.
Waiting with excitement now !
 
Wayne, if you get around to using those 'Almark' SEAC decals, be prepared for a bit of work !
I started applying the roundels, after spraying the sheet with a clear acrylic sealer, just in case. After three hours, I had two roundels in place, and had wasted a further three!
They were difficult to 'bed down', and no matter what I did, they still showed a greyish outline, more so if trimmed close.
I eventually discovered that this was the adhesive, which was dissolving, a clear indication of their age (the sheet is shown with a date of 1989). So now, each decal has to be carefully lifted from the backing paper, and the adhesive cleaned off with a wet paint brush, before laying down on an area wetted with Micro Sol and / or Klear (Future).
I'll post some pics either later tonight, or sometime tomorrow, Meanwhile, whilst the decals are hopefully settling, I'm continuing with the landing gear, prop and canopy etc.
 
Well, after a total five and a half hours, I finally got all 8 SEAC decals in place!
As mentioned in the previous post, this entailed removing each decal from the backing sheet after being soaked in water, and after applying a few drops of 'Micro Sol', then turning each decal over, and removing the glue with the aid of a wet paint brush, and a little more 'Micro Sol'.
The 'Sol' helped to partially dissolve the glue, which had obviously degraded over the years, and discoloured, which caused the opaque effect on what should be the clear decal carrier film.
Once this was done, a little 'Sol' was applied to the back of each decal, and also the area to be treated, and the decal then placed, off the tip of my finger, before gently squeegee-ing it into place, again using a small paint brush. Once satisfied that the decal was correctly placed and all air and moisture had been eliminated from beneath the film, it was then gently pressed down, and a little more 'Sol' applied, and then left to settle.
I found that Klear/Future was not required, although a clear coat will be applied over each decal once they have fully set.
So now, the only decals to place are those for the serial number, once that is established either way, plus a couple more small stencils I forgot to make. Then it's back to final construction, clear matt coat, and some detail work, before moving on to making the display base.

PIC 1. A roundel decal turned over, showing the back, and the cloudy, grey appearance of the carrier film
PIC 2. The opaque carrier film is more apparent in this shot.
PIC 3. Here, the glue can be seen collecting as it is being washed off, and note the clarity of the decal itself (the back of the printed image) where the glue has been removed.
PIC 4. One of the wing roundels in place and settling, with the carrier film disappearing as intended.
PIC 5. All decals done, except the serials and a couple of tiny stencils.
The pics show the process of getting the decals to work, and thanks once again for your interest to date. More soon !
 

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I agree with Andy. What a royal pain in the a$$!!! I don't have you're patience Terry. I would have got out the circle template and masking tape long before. Final result turned out great though, much better than any masking I would have done.
 
Thanks Andy and Glenn. I'm afraid circular masking is a bit beyond the capabilities of my hands these days, especially in this small size, as they're under 9mm in diameter!
 
Fabulous work Terry!!!!
Very impressive great to see it really taking shape!
Thanks once again - we all await film now!
 
Oh ... have you forgotten about scissors? It would be enough to use them for cutting off the yellowish-greyish transparent background. Of course it should have been done when decals were dry.
But well done Terry. You have really patience.
 
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Thanks very much chaps, it wasn't that bad in the end, but glad it's over!
Wojtek, the first two decals were trimmed right at the edge of the printed area, with no film left showing. The problem was, the glue from under the decal then leeched out, leaving a grey halo, no matter what I tried. It also collected in little 'blobs', making it look as though the decal was wrinkled, even though it was flat.The only solution was to remove these decals, and then remove the glue. After that, I did the same to all of the decals - just removed the old, yellowish-grey glue, without trimming them very close, and fixed them in place with Micro Sol.
They now seem to have settled nicely and, after cleaning, will receive a gloss clear coat.
Now trying to determine what shade of green the prop spinner probably was, and get that sorted. Might have some pics tonight.
 
Oh.. I understand now Terry. It was the decal glue but not the trasparent background. Looking at your images I got the impression. So OK.
 

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