Camo is looking good...
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Good work so far!
Crimea_River
Marshal
With all. If you are using Tamiya paints, you don't have to wait that long to mask. They dry almost instantly. Just be sure to reduce the stickiness of your tape and you should be fine. Dab it into the palm of your hand a couple of times before applying to the model.
- Thread starter
- #224
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks for your comments friends.
It is good to know and I thank Andy for the tip about drying acrylic paints Tamiya. I knew that dry faster than enamel and have preferred to wait longer, to not risk the paint
.
This weekend I was out of town; so it is sufficient drying time. Today I took the opportunity to apply the 2nd in the wings and with your advice, tomorrow I take to cover the wings and fuselage end.
Thank you very much for your interest and suggestions.
Muchas gracias compañeros y colegas!
Luis Carlos
It is good to know and I thank Andy for the tip about drying acrylic paints Tamiya. I knew that dry faster than enamel and have preferred to wait longer, to not risk the paint
. This weekend I was out of town; so it is sufficient drying time. Today I took the opportunity to apply the 2nd in the wings and with your advice, tomorrow I take to cover the wings and fuselage end.
Thank you very much for your interest and suggestions.
Muchas gracias compañeros y colegas!
Luis Carlos
- Thread starter
- #225
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Dear partners; "There is no deadline that is not met, or date that not arrived"
(No hay plazo que no se cumpla, ni fecha que no se llegue)
Yesterday I put the masks and apply the RLM 81 in all the pieces that occupy it.
... I covered the wings and apply red brown to try an effect I saw and liked in the images I chose for that section of the fuselage, after observing lot of images with camouflage for this the version of Me 262A-1 / U4
The time it took me to clean the airbrush slightly, was enough to apply the Brown Violett (RLM 81), I applied some outstanding "motes" with Hellgrum (RLM 82) and I conclude work on the fuselage ...
... what are their opinions? ...![:-\"](/forum/images/smilies/eusa_whistle.gif "Whistle :-\\"")
... I feel a little exaggerated "spotted" on both sides in front of the plane
, ... infinitely appreciate your comments and suggestions 
(still lacking to make washes and weathering that make that will improve the overall appearance ...)
Here is a panoramic and keep in touch ...
Gracias de antemano por el apoyo recibido. Saludos
Luis Carlos
(No hay plazo que no se cumpla, ni fecha que no se llegue)
Yesterday I put the masks and apply the RLM 81 in all the pieces that occupy it.
... I covered the wings and apply red brown to try an effect I saw and liked in the images I chose for that section of the fuselage, after observing lot of images with camouflage for this the version of Me 262A-1 / U4
The time it took me to clean the airbrush slightly, was enough to apply the Brown Violett (RLM 81), I applied some outstanding "motes" with Hellgrum (RLM 82) and I conclude work on the fuselage ...
... what are their opinions? ...
... I feel a little exaggerated "spotted" on both sides in front of the plane
, ... infinitely appreciate your comments and suggestions (still lacking to make washes and weathering that make that will improve the overall appearance ...)Here is a panoramic and keep in touch ...
Gracias de antemano por el apoyo recibido. Saludos
Luis Carlos
fubar57
General
Can't offer any advice but I like it.
Geo
Geo
Crimea_River
Marshal
Nothing wrong with that to my eye.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looks good to me too.
Nicely done so far!
- Thread starter
- #231
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
I hope that you are well, I already have one foot in the weekend! 
Thanks for taking the time to comment Wojtek, Geo, Andy, Terry and Huge, you are the experts, so, these spots are left.
In some photographs I liked the yellow detail on the tail and aluminum at the tip (gives a better view on the plane
)
Do you remember the tragedy at the leg in front landing gear?
(Posts: # 123, # 139 and # 147)
... Were several hours dedicated to fix this piece as best as possible ...
The first was to replace the small cushion (9 mm long), I used a hypodermic needle and a wire that will run through inside to serve as an anchor at the ends ...
With a pin I indicated the center where I made the holes with a mini drill ...
With a slightly larger mini drill, I made the hole to fit a clip (will give more strength to the joint of the leg with the "landing moat")
Now to juggle order to securely hold the plane to make the necessary anchor holes ...
To be continued...
Thanks for taking the time to comment Wojtek, Geo, Andy, Terry and Huge, you are the experts, so, these spots are left.
In some photographs I liked the yellow detail on the tail and aluminum at the tip (gives a better view on the plane
)Do you remember the tragedy at the leg in front landing gear?
(Posts: # 123, # 139 and # 147)
... Were several hours dedicated to fix this piece as best as possible ...
The first was to replace the small cushion (9 mm long), I used a hypodermic needle and a wire that will run through inside to serve as an anchor at the ends ...
With a pin I indicated the center where I made the holes with a mini drill ...
With a slightly larger mini drill, I made the hole to fit a clip (will give more strength to the joint of the leg with the "landing moat")
Now to juggle order to securely hold the plane to make the necessary anchor holes ...
To be continued...
- Thread starter
- #232
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
In my stock of wires and tubes I found a container with acupuncture needles, more resilient and flexible than the normal wire, so I made the change ...
My dear Magy (my wife) helped me with the following photos ... She said, "Well worth seeing how you manage to make your mini-holes" ...
!!
I have enjoyed and taken advantage of lot of tools and accessories DREMEL I have been able begin to acquire. (I recommend them - although not get paid commission from the commercial -)
Well, that's all for now ... let's get some sleep ...
See you soon and thanks for your visits.
Luis Carlos
My dear Magy (my wife) helped me with the following photos ... She said, "Well worth seeing how you manage to make your mini-holes" ...
!!I have enjoyed and taken advantage of lot of tools and accessories DREMEL I have been able begin to acquire. (I recommend them - although not get paid commission from the commercial -
)Well, that's all for now ... let's get some sleep ...
See you soon and thanks for your visits.
Luis Carlos
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Nice work on a tricky job. I have to do something similar on my Mitchell, as the main locating pin for the nose gear leg sheared off.
I'll probably re-build the entire leg, using alloy tube and brass rod.
I'll probably re-build the entire leg, using alloy tube and brass rod.
- Thread starter
- #235
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Thank you for your comment Terry ; I hope everything goes well with the Nose gear leg (I like Mitchel, I have one waiting in my cellar) .
If you have a chance to show the repair, it will be very useful for many and an excellent guide for such repairs (which are very common). And if you decide to do this using alloy tube and brass rod, ... will be a very interesting topic! (I bought the essentials for welding miniature ... but still I do not dare to do it and I have not taken the time to practice)
I send you a hug wishing you are well my friend.
Luis Carlos
; I hope everything goes well with the Nose gear leg (I like Mitchel, I have one waiting in my cellar) . If you have a chance to show the repair, it will be very useful for many and an excellent guide for such repairs (which are very common). And if you decide to do this using alloy tube and brass rod, ... will be a very interesting topic! (I bought the essentials for welding miniature ... but still I do not dare to do it and I have not taken the time to practice
)I send you a hug wishing you are well my friend.
Luis Carlos
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Luis.
I didn't really explain properly.
What I will most likely do, is to to replace the plastic retraction jack (already thinned-down to a more scale appearance) with a length of alloy tube, and fit another, short length of tube in place of the original, plastic mounting point, on the top of the nose gear main leg, or, more likely, insert this into the top of the leg, to attach inside the wheel bay, and add strength to the leg
The jack will locate into an angled plastic, or perhaps brass tube, glued to the 'roof' at the rear of the wheel well, to add strength to the nose gear, as there will be quite a lot of lead weight directly above it, needed to keep the nose wheel down and prevent a 'tail sitter'.
A block of plastic, or something similar, will need to be fitted directly above the mounting point on the main leg, into which the new mounting point will be attached, as it's impossible to access the original moulding to drill-out the remains of the plastic pin.
The retraction jack won't be totally accurate, as the front section of the real jack was a forged, or cast, shallow 'H' section, attached and hinged to the tubular rear section, but this will be impossible to replicate in this scale, without access to miniature engineering machinery.
But as it is under the aircraft, and partly hidden inside the wheel bay, it should look acceptable enough I think.
Hopefully, this will all make sense when I eventually post pictures of the repair / modification.
I didn't really explain properly.
What I will most likely do, is to to replace the plastic retraction jack (already thinned-down to a more scale appearance) with a length of alloy tube, and fit another, short length of tube in place of the original, plastic mounting point, on the top of the nose gear main leg, or, more likely, insert this into the top of the leg, to attach inside the wheel bay, and add strength to the leg
The jack will locate into an angled plastic, or perhaps brass tube, glued to the 'roof' at the rear of the wheel well, to add strength to the nose gear, as there will be quite a lot of lead weight directly above it, needed to keep the nose wheel down and prevent a 'tail sitter'.
A block of plastic, or something similar, will need to be fitted directly above the mounting point on the main leg, into which the new mounting point will be attached, as it's impossible to access the original moulding to drill-out the remains of the plastic pin.
The retraction jack won't be totally accurate, as the front section of the real jack was a forged, or cast, shallow 'H' section, attached and hinged to the tubular rear section, but this will be impossible to replicate in this scale, without access to miniature engineering machinery.
But as it is under the aircraft, and partly hidden inside the wheel bay, it should look acceptable enough I think.
Hopefully, this will all make sense when I eventually post pictures of the repair / modification.
- Thread starter
- #237
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Very interesting the different options to resolve this obstacle in your Mitchell and it is necessary to have in a good condition our aerial arsenal. Now I have some planes that require a retouched and / or repaired.
Those photos you say publish and your "how to" will definitely help.
Terry good weekend.
Those photos you say publish and your "how to" will definitely help.
Terry good weekend.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Intricate repair L-C. And the 262 looks really good.
- Thread starter
- #239
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Thanks friend, I think I am losing my sight !!!
Greetings.
Greetings.
- Thread starter
- #240
SANCER
Senior Master Sergeant
Well !! ... now one can see the light at the end of the tunnel!
After 2 layers of glossy varnish, a good sanded with fine sandpaper to smooth as much as possible the surface for decals ...
Wow ... they are many and various are very small, but I must tell you that no major problem to put them in place ... well ... were several hours to achieve this!
Much is that I think are very good quality stickers, even in the smallest can be clearly read texts! (Though I am nothing literate in German)
... that follow the photos ...!
Whats Next? ... Check if another application Micro Sol is necessary, give another coat of gloss varnish and get on with panels, rivets and weathering.
I greet you fondly, thank you for your many visits and comments.
Luis Carlos
After 2 layers of glossy varnish, a good sanded with fine sandpaper to smooth as much as possible the surface for decals ...
Wow ... they are many and various are very small, but I must tell you that no major problem to put them in place ... well ... were several hours to achieve this!
Much is that I think are very good quality stickers, even in the smallest can be clearly read texts! (Though I am nothing literate in German)
... that follow the photos ...!
Whats Next? ... Check if another application Micro Sol is necessary, give another coat of gloss varnish and get on with panels, rivets and weathering.
I greet you fondly, thank you for your many visits and comments.
Luis Carlos
