Heinz
Captain
This is one is going to come up great! Great work so far man!
1/72 Sm 82 Marsupiale; 205 Sq, 12 Stormo B.T.; Gadurra, Rhodes, 1940 MTO Group Build
- Thread starter kgambit
- Start date
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ozhawk40
Master Sergeant
Dwight - I gotta say this is an interesting choice and the kit looks like it has lots of detail to keep you busy. Is that a turret on the top behind the cockpit, or a set of "My Favourite Martian" style Antennae?
Cheers
Peter
Cheers
Peter
- Thread starter
- #23
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Dwight - I gotta say this is an interesting choice and the kit looks like it has lots of detail to keep you busy. Is that a turret on the top behind the cockpit, or a set of "My Favourite Martian" style Antennae?
Cheers
Peter
Peter,
That is indeed a turret, but I like the "My Favorite Martian" reference.
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- Thread starter
- #24
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
The underside of the Sm 82 (in all three paint schemes shown in the first post) appears to be some sort of NMF (aluminum probably). The instructions call for a Silver underside but that seems too polished or perhaps bright is a better word. I've never done a NMF finish before so any tips anyone has (remember I am working with Acrylics here) would be helpful.
I was planning on using Tamiya Flat Aluminum but not sure that is a good idea (and at least one person over at Fine Scale Forums thinks it's a BAD idea). A number of people suggested Talon Acrylic NM paints. Anyone ever used them?
I was planning on using Tamiya Flat Aluminum but not sure that is a good idea (and at least one person over at Fine Scale Forums thinks it's a BAD idea). A number of people suggested Talon Acrylic NM paints. Anyone ever used them?
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Not used Talon, but have used Citadel/Warhammer Mithril Silver for a NMF finish....used Tamiya thinner to run it through my airbrush....
...example of finish on my Ki-84...
Attachments
- Thread starter
- #26
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Wayne, that looks pretty close to what I am going for. What did you use for the paint / thinner ratio and psi?
Honestly don't remember exactly...but was about 60/40..70/30 paint to thinner and I reckon about 30-40 psi....but I do play around with the ratio's and settings, found that light passes building up did the job with best results....now I have been airbrushing for along time with the same airbrush so I know it pretty well.
You may choose to do things a little differently....good luck mate!
- Thread starter
- #28
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Thanks Wayne. I was looking for some general guidelines and that fits the bill perfectly. When I get ready to airbrush that NMF, I'll definitely play around a bit with the settings.
Thanks again.
Glad to be of service!
- Thread starter
- #30
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Had house guests this past week so progress on the kits was non-existant.
All of the interior parts are painted and dry-fitted. Everything looks good so far on the fit. I've done about 90% of the detail painting to pick out interior details. The only thing that remains is to paint the leather cushions on the seats, and add them to the seat frames. Instrument panels are finished using the decals in the kit and I'm using a new set of Mike Grant's cockpit detail decals to add a couple of the instument gauges on the back instrument panel and the radio set where none were provided.
Interior detail work should be finished this weekend and I'll start the assembly as well. Should have everything in place by the middle of this week.
Once that's done, the windows get added to the fuselage halves and everything gets closed up.
I managed to find a product called Micro-Mask which is AWESOME! I've tested it on a couple of the windows and it works great. It's blue liquid that you simply brush paint over the area you want to mask off. It you goof up, it clears up with water, and can be applied directly to plastic OR painted surfaces (even acrylics). I generally put two or three coats on as it tends to dry clearer than the wet liquid so two or three coats guarantees I've got what I want masked off AND by the third coat the dried mask is actually a clear blue which makes it easier to see what has been masked off. When it's dry, you can paint over it. Then when the paint dries simply tap a small piece of sticky masking tape over the painted mask and just pull the mask away. It doesn't pull the surrounding paint away at all unless you get really careless.
Finished all of the work on the propellers and engine cowling interiiors. Propellors are painted gunmetal on the front of the blades, flat black on the backsides, with silver spinner hubs - and finished adding the fascia decals on the front of the blades and white stripping on the back of them. The engines are basically just gunmetal / burnt iron dry brushed in flat aluminum and the interioir of the engine cowlings (front is silver / back is gunmetal-burnt iron). The exterior of the engine cowlings will be prepainted using the camo brown and then masked off to add a ring of dark copper at the front of the cowling. The engine cowlings have been dry fit tested and there's no problems there. The only problem is with the piece that they mate to which is joined to the wing assembly. Have some gap issues there.
Finished all of the wheel well assembly and landing gear detail work as well. Highlighted the cables and hydraulic / lubricant lines (black and rust brown respectively as per the walkthrough) inside the wheel wells which are painted flat aluminum. The struts themselves are painted silver with a couple of pieces overpainted with a diluted gunmetal to darken them up. The wheel wells are ready to be dropped into the lower wing halves and the wing assemblies should be finished this weekend.
Pictures will be up in a few days. My wife took the digital camera this past week and she hasn't given me the camera back to download the pics from it yet.
All of the interior parts are painted and dry-fitted. Everything looks good so far on the fit. I've done about 90% of the detail painting to pick out interior details. The only thing that remains is to paint the leather cushions on the seats, and add them to the seat frames. Instrument panels are finished using the decals in the kit and I'm using a new set of Mike Grant's cockpit detail decals to add a couple of the instument gauges on the back instrument panel and the radio set where none were provided.
Interior detail work should be finished this weekend and I'll start the assembly as well. Should have everything in place by the middle of this week.
Once that's done, the windows get added to the fuselage halves and everything gets closed up.
I managed to find a product called Micro-Mask which is AWESOME! I've tested it on a couple of the windows and it works great. It's blue liquid that you simply brush paint over the area you want to mask off. It you goof up, it clears up with water, and can be applied directly to plastic OR painted surfaces (even acrylics). I generally put two or three coats on as it tends to dry clearer than the wet liquid so two or three coats guarantees I've got what I want masked off AND by the third coat the dried mask is actually a clear blue which makes it easier to see what has been masked off. When it's dry, you can paint over it. Then when the paint dries simply tap a small piece of sticky masking tape over the painted mask and just pull the mask away. It doesn't pull the surrounding paint away at all unless you get really careless.
Finished all of the work on the propellers and engine cowling interiiors. Propellors are painted gunmetal on the front of the blades, flat black on the backsides, with silver spinner hubs - and finished adding the fascia decals on the front of the blades and white stripping on the back of them. The engines are basically just gunmetal / burnt iron dry brushed in flat aluminum and the interioir of the engine cowlings (front is silver / back is gunmetal-burnt iron). The exterior of the engine cowlings will be prepainted using the camo brown and then masked off to add a ring of dark copper at the front of the cowling. The engine cowlings have been dry fit tested and there's no problems there. The only problem is with the piece that they mate to which is joined to the wing assembly. Have some gap issues there.
Finished all of the wheel well assembly and landing gear detail work as well. Highlighted the cables and hydraulic / lubricant lines (black and rust brown respectively as per the walkthrough) inside the wheel wells which are painted flat aluminum. The struts themselves are painted silver with a couple of pieces overpainted with a diluted gunmetal to darken them up. The wheel wells are ready to be dropped into the lower wing halves and the wing assemblies should be finished this weekend.
Pictures will be up in a few days. My wife took the digital camera this past week and she hasn't given me the camera back to download the pics from it yet.
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- Thread starter
- #31
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Okay here's a few images:
The rear bulkhead of the cockpit:
Radio bench (sitting on the Lifecolor acrylic jar used for the interior). It still needs bit of touch up - didn't get the area under the lower radio unit masked off as well as I thought, and it needs a couple of dials highlighted:
Rear view of the propellers:
Front views of the props:
Currently putting the interior together, more shots when it's all assembled and waiting to be closed off.
The rear bulkhead of the cockpit:
Radio bench (sitting on the Lifecolor acrylic jar used for the interior). It still needs bit of touch up - didn't get the area under the lower radio unit masked off as well as I thought, and it needs a couple of dials highlighted:
Rear view of the propellers:
Front views of the props:
Currently putting the interior together, more shots when it's all assembled and waiting to be closed off.
- Thread starter
- #32
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
And a couple of more:
The wheel wells with various lines highlighted (wheel wells are ready to glued in place but are simply taped in for the photgraph):
And the bomb bay without payload (electrical lines highlighted in yellow). Needs a tiny bit of touch-up along three of the lines:
and with payload (bombs are not glued in place yet) and yes, one of the bomb tail fins is out of whack - dam it. I'm going to simply rotate the bomb to try to hide it. lol Bombs need to have their mounting strap painted as well. Since they can go on after the bomb bay is in place, I've held off adding that detail for the moment.
The wheel wells with various lines highlighted (wheel wells are ready to glued in place but are simply taped in for the photgraph):
And the bomb bay without payload (electrical lines highlighted in yellow). Needs a tiny bit of touch-up along three of the lines:
and with payload (bombs are not glued in place yet) and yes, one of the bomb tail fins is out of whack - dam it. I'm going to simply rotate the bomb to try to hide it. lol Bombs need to have their mounting strap painted as well. Since they can go on after the bomb bay is in place, I've held off adding that detail for the moment.
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B-17engineer
Colonel
nice work!
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looking very good Dwight, some nice detail there.
vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
Holy fricken gees Dwight, NICE!
Heinz
Captain
Looks great man, loving those details you're picking out!
109ROAMING
2nd Lieutenant
With Heinz
Vic Balshaw
Major General
That's some nice fine work you've done there Dwight
- Thread starter
- #40
kgambit
Tech Sergeant
Thanks everyone.
Here's an in-progress shot of the cockpit console with the radio station dry fitted. Seats and seat frames still need to be finished and added.
Here's an in-progress shot of the cockpit console with the radio station dry fitted. Seats and seat frames still need to be finished and added.
