Crimea_River
Marshal
Looks great Dale, and I agree with Wayne, if that wasn't obvious.
Oh, BTW, how do you like the EagleCals?
Oh, BTW, how do you like the EagleCals?
**** DONE: 1/48 Bf 109G6 - Winter War / Eastern Front WWII (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter dneid
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #142
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Thank you, Andy, Wayne. I think the wire will be the way I go. I just need to see if what I have on the bench will work out ok. Not a huge issue as there is a Fry's 3 miles away and they have tons of small wire.
Andy, you know, I think I do like those EagleCals. BTW, I did get a few packs of the UMM lead wire 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm. A couple of packs of each. I am really looking forward to using the stuff. Too bad I can't get the size diffs with it unless I want to inflict more pain on myself.
Andy, you know, I think I do like those EagleCals. BTW, I did get a few packs of the UMM lead wire 0.2mm, 0.3mm, 0.4mm, 0.5mm. A couple of packs of each. I am really looking forward to using the stuff. Too bad I can't get the size diffs with it unless I want to inflict more pain on myself.
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Why hunt for wire when you have the lead? I think the 0.3mm lead wire is perfect for the brake line.
Wasn't sure if you liked those EagleCals. You seemed to be on the fence
Wasn't sure if you liked those EagleCals. You seemed to be on the fence
- Thread starter
- #144
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Andy,
I am concerned about getting the difference in thickness from the rigid line and the flex line. However, I can see where the lead wire would be the perfect solution if I decide to forgo the varying thickness.
I finished all the decals this afternoon. On went a nice coat of flat. I will let that setup overnight and then start the panel lines and staining her up. One more flat finish after all the staining and panel lines are done. Then get back to the gear tomorrow night while I let the flat setup for 36-48 hrs. After that comes the fiddly bits that seem to take me forever. Ok, it is more of a matter of my clumsy fingers breaking things off and having to re-attach, re-attach, re-attach.
As for the EagleCals.... ok, ok, ok, I will tumble off the fence. I freakin' love em! Just ordered another set I found on ebay for $12 to the door. Exact same set for the stencils, and, hey, can you ever have too many decals? Hartmann is on the to build list.
I am concerned about getting the difference in thickness from the rigid line and the flex line. However, I can see where the lead wire would be the perfect solution if I decide to forgo the varying thickness.
I finished all the decals this afternoon. On went a nice coat of flat. I will let that setup overnight and then start the panel lines and staining her up. One more flat finish after all the staining and panel lines are done. Then get back to the gear tomorrow night while I let the flat setup for 36-48 hrs. After that comes the fiddly bits that seem to take me forever. Ok, it is more of a matter of my clumsy fingers breaking things off and having to re-attach, re-attach, re-attach.
As for the EagleCals.... ok, ok, ok, I will tumble off the fence. I freakin' love em! Just ordered another set I found on ebay for $12 to the door. Exact same set for the stencils, and, hey, can you ever have too many decals? Hartmann is on the to build list.
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I Will second the Eaglecals are great to use got plenty myself!
looks brilliant Dale !
- Thread starter
- #148
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Thank you for all the kind words, guys. Eduard brake lines are removed. I am going to go with the 0.3mm line as Andy suggested. I need to finish cleaning the legs up and then a quick repaint to get all the cut marks covered.
BTW, eduard did reply to my request for new barrels. Quite awhile ago as well, I used an email address I do not monitor that often. They asked for the kit and sprue number and postal address. I replied last night, so we will see how that goes. They will send an entire sprue so I will have some spare G-6 parts if anyone needs anything from sprue I.
BTW, eduard did reply to my request for new barrels. Quite awhile ago as well, I used an email address I do not monitor that often. They asked for the kit and sprue number and postal address. I replied last night, so we will see how that goes. They will send an entire sprue so I will have some spare G-6 parts if anyone needs anything from sprue I.
JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Whoa... the eyes! I love the transformation from simple hunks of plastic into a warbird!
As far as stenciling is concerned, I am not a stickler either way. At 1/48 scale, they can either be a nice enhancement or they can detract from the model's appearance, especially if they are too thick.
As far as stenciling is concerned, I am not a stickler either way. At 1/48 scale, they can either be a nice enhancement or they can detract from the model's appearance, especially if they are too thick.
- Thread starter
- #151
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Yeah, JKim, I have to agree with you. I generally go on a model by model basis. If they are thick AND going on a dark background (assuming the stencils are black), I do not use many of them. If they are nice and thin and sturdy (read EagleCal, did I mention I really like the EagleCals?) going on a lighter background, I tend to use all of them I do not bugger up.
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Crimea_River
Marshal
I'd be stenciling that rig Dale. Mostly a standrad factory finish so most likely they were there.
- Thread starter
- #153
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Hey, Guys,
Thanks for stopping by. Well, getting real close to done now. Landing gear is done. I need to find a better mix of paint for German rubber, I am not real pleased with what I have. It is NOT pure black. The camera does not really show the difference though. Anyone care to share their secret sauce? I did use the 0.3mm lead wire. Nice stuff, easy to work with if you are patient. The first picture is the gear:
Tail wheel is painted and on, landing gear is pressed into place for now. I did use the Tamiya weathering set for the exhaust staining. Thanks once again, Andy for the warning about left vs rgt. I think I got ok. I did try the airbrush on some sheet. I was just not real happy with the results and did not want to mess up at this stage. So, out came the Tamiya set.
I did use Wayne's method of panel line marking. Thanks for the tutorials, Wayne! I always refer to them. So, here is the belly with a tad of oil streaking around the oil cooler.
So, what's left?
* attach the lower radiator flaps
* various antenna
* Cockpit glass with the little bit of PE
* dbl check everything and maybe one last coat of flat
* chip the prop up a bit along the leading edge
I think that is it. BTW, Andy, I did use the entire stencil set on this one. Hopefully, I can have her done mid to late next week. I think I will try to finish the Spit before the next GB.
Thanks for stopping by. Well, getting real close to done now. Landing gear is done. I need to find a better mix of paint for German rubber, I am not real pleased with what I have. It is NOT pure black. The camera does not really show the difference though. Anyone care to share their secret sauce? I did use the 0.3mm lead wire. Nice stuff, easy to work with if you are patient. The first picture is the gear:
Tail wheel is painted and on, landing gear is pressed into place for now. I did use the Tamiya weathering set for the exhaust staining. Thanks once again, Andy for the warning about left vs rgt. I think I got ok. I did try the airbrush on some sheet. I was just not real happy with the results and did not want to mess up at this stage. So, out came the Tamiya set.
I did use Wayne's method of panel line marking. Thanks for the tutorials, Wayne! I always refer to them. So, here is the belly with a tad of oil streaking around the oil cooler.
So, what's left?
* attach the lower radiator flaps
* various antenna
* Cockpit glass with the little bit of PE
* dbl check everything and maybe one last coat of flat
* chip the prop up a bit along the leading edge
I think that is it. BTW, Andy, I did use the entire stencil set on this one. Hopefully, I can have her done mid to late next week. I think I will try to finish the Spit before the next GB.
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JKim
Senior Master Sergeant
Looking good! What is the "Tamiya weathering set"? Is it brush applied? As far as tire rubber is concerned, I just use an informal mixture of Tamiya XF-22 (RLM Grey) and Tamiya X-1 (Black).
- Thread starter
- #156
dneid
Staff Sergeant
Check out my Ar 196 thread (http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/-2...-196a-seaplanes-floatplanes-wwii-40948-8.html) I think post 112.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Like John. for tires I just tone down the black with a drop of white. I keep a small jar of "Lightened Black" at hand for this purpose. I'll then often also apply a very thin spray of a dust colour along the running surface as well for dirt airfields.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, a very dark grey, almost black, with a touch of Dark Earth or similar brown hue added, will give a 'rubber' look. Like Andy, I normally dry brush the tread area, and perhaps part of the tyre wall, with the appropriate colour of the 'ground' the aircraft would be sitting on, particularly in a diorama. This could be mud, sand, various colours of earth, concrete etc.
Looks good so far!
Home stretch dale, looking good.
