**** DONE: - 1/72 Avro Lancaster BII - Aircraft Nose Art GB.
- Thread starter pattle
- Start date
Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Looks fine to me too, but if you want a 'hard' demarcation between the colours, then use a 000 brush, and 'go over' the edge demarcation, using the Dark Green, with just a touch of thinners added.
It sounds difficult, but it isn't, although it takes a bit of time.
It sounds difficult, but it isn't, although it takes a bit of time.
- Thread starter
- #63
I was looking for a demarcation line that looks like someone had sat on the wing and sprayed it with a spray gun, sort of a little fuzzy. It is not quite as I wanted it, but I have decided to settle for things as they are because I don't think that I will be able to get it looking just as I want it and I might ruin it trying.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, I'd be tempted to leave it. You'd need to check if the aircraft had hard or feathered demarcation and, without looking it up, I'm fairly sure it was hard.
But, if unable to achieve the desired effect with an airbrush, a convincing way to replicate the softer edge in this scale, is to paint-in the demarcation, using a 50/50 mix of the two colours, as a very fine line, again using the 000 brush. This looks just like the 'feathered edge' of the overspray, unless examined really closely, or under a magnifying glass. I used to use this method (still do sometimes) even up to 1/32nd scale.
But, if unable to achieve the desired effect with an airbrush, a convincing way to replicate the softer edge in this scale, is to paint-in the demarcation, using a 50/50 mix of the two colours, as a very fine line, again using the 000 brush. This looks just like the 'feathered edge' of the overspray, unless examined really closely, or under a magnifying glass. I used to use this method (still do sometimes) even up to 1/32nd scale.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Personally, I think that a properly scaled soft edge at 1/72 scale looks almost like a hard edge anyway.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yep, I agree.
- Thread starter
- #67
T Bolt
Colonel
It's looking really nice. The guys are right, the application of a gloss coat and then a matt coat goes a long way to evening everything out and giving it a more 'scale' look.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Exactly. That's why it would look sharper. No sign of a soft edge in this picture:
Cool shot! says it all really....
N4521U
Colonel
It sure looks like Airfix has produced a real winner.........
and I think you are as well.
and I think you are as well.
meatloaf109
1st Lieutenant
Not much I can say, except that the guys have it right.
- Thread starter
- #73
Is this why people on here are spraying models with Pledge/Klear before going back over with Mattcote or similar? Mattcote is a colourless humbrol varnish available in the UK, I don't know if you see humbrol much in the USA or other countries?
Crimea_River
Marshal
The gloss coat is actually more for making the decals adhere properly without silvering. The film also disappears, unlike when applying it to a matte coat and having the glossy film making the underlying colour appear darker and glossy.
Humbrol is available here in Canada but so are its major (and I believe better) competitors.
Humbrol is available here in Canada but so are its major (and I believe better) competitors.
- Thread starter
- #75
I have to say that after a life time of using mostly Humbrol and Revell paints (which I have found to be of an equal standard) that I am really impressed with these model master and alclad ready mixed spray paints, I am surprised how much better they look. Crimea River thanks for explaining the purpose of the gloss coat, I will definitely use it, but can I use klear as the gloss coat?
Vic Balshaw
Major General
I don't see why not and it also acts as good protection against possible paint chipping/scratching.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Yes, you can use Klear (Future, in the USA) as a gloss coat before decals. It's often better to brush this on, but look at the various discussions on this, elsewhere on the forum, to see what's needed and what should be avoided. It works well, and is simple to use.
However, the final clear coat, in this case a matt coat, would need to be acrylic also, as solvent-based varnishes would react with the Klear, and Tamiya Flat base can be added to Klear to make this, although testing for the ratio of mix must be done first. Again, this is discussed in a number of threads here on the forum, as are many subjects which pop up repeatedly.
I've used Humbrol enamels for over 50 years, which used to be superior to Revell by a long way, and superior to most other paints by some measure. But, until very recently, they have been made elsewhere in the World, since the demise of Humbrol as a company some years ago and were, quite frankly, cr@p !
I had to persevere though, as they are the only paints I can obtain locally, although mail order for Xtracolour has saved the day some times. But I stopped using Humbrol Matt Coat many years ago, as I found it inconsistent, being either too matt, or edging towards semi gloss, plus, of course, the problem of yellowing with age.
I first changed to an acrylic varnish, and then discovered Klear, and the ability to mix with the FB, to give both gloss, matt and everything in between.
However, the final clear coat, in this case a matt coat, would need to be acrylic also, as solvent-based varnishes would react with the Klear, and Tamiya Flat base can be added to Klear to make this, although testing for the ratio of mix must be done first. Again, this is discussed in a number of threads here on the forum, as are many subjects which pop up repeatedly.
I've used Humbrol enamels for over 50 years, which used to be superior to Revell by a long way, and superior to most other paints by some measure. But, until very recently, they have been made elsewhere in the World, since the demise of Humbrol as a company some years ago and were, quite frankly, cr@p !
I had to persevere though, as they are the only paints I can obtain locally, although mail order for Xtracolour has saved the day some times. But I stopped using Humbrol Matt Coat many years ago, as I found it inconsistent, being either too matt, or edging towards semi gloss, plus, of course, the problem of yellowing with age.
I first changed to an acrylic varnish, and then discovered Klear, and the ability to mix with the FB, to give both gloss, matt and everything in between.
- Thread starter
- #78
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
No problem. Don't be afraid to ask if there's anything in the sequence you don't understand. Also, have a look at the threads on 'The complete Future' and 'Future -UK specific', as many of the points you may have questions on are covered there.
T Bolt
Colonel
I use Testers (or Model Master, same thing) Dull Cote for my final mat cote. I use to use the spray can version but would some tome end op with a blocky look when dry so for yeas now I use it from the bottle and spray it with an airbrush.
