**** DONE: GB-36 1/48 Macchi C.202 Folgore - Axis Manufactured Aircraft of WWII

[Crimea_River]

Good stuff Kirby. Sounds like we'll extend the GB some more to allow you, Wayne and Steph to finish.

 

[turbo]

Thanks Andy, that will be very helpful as I don't think I'm going to get this finished by this weekend.

 

[parsifal]

Excellent work Kirby

 

[Wurger]

 

[Wayne Little]

Great work Kirby.

 

[Gnomey]

Great work so far!

 

[Airframes]

Looking the biz with the markings in place - nice work Kirby.

 

[turbo]

Thanks folks! As is usually the case, after primary painting and decaling the model looks a bit stark and unrealistic. The first stage in bringing the camo together is to apply a filter. For this model I decided to use an Ochre filter using oil paint. Some subtle post-shading was then added using highly thinned Tamiya Smoke to start defining some panels and control surfaces. This will form the base for some oil work next. These first effects are kind of subtle so I'll post before and after shots to see if you can see things starting to come together!

Thanks for stopping by

 

[Wurger]

 

[Wayne Little]

Nice.

 

[Crimea_River]

Definitely see the difference. When you get some time, I would welcome a description of your "filtering" process.

 

[Gnomey]

Lovely work so far!

 

[Airframes]

Nice !

 

[turbo]

Definitely see the difference. When you get some time, I would welcome a description of your "filtering" process.

Sure thing Andy. The initial overall filter described above was simply a blob of Ochre oil paint thinned in about 20 times its volume of white spirit and brushed over the entire model with a wide flat brush. The objective here is not for the model to appear ochre but a subtle effect that begins to bind the colours together.

The second stage is similar to an oil dot filter, but it is not. I do not use the oils as a filter at this stage but rather to create fading, shadows, highlights, chromatic variation, and dirt and grime.

Here I'm going to fade a particular panel to create some visual interest. I start by dabbing on some light coloured oils with a fine brush. Apologies for the crappy quality of the pics but I prefer to work quickly with this method so was taking snaps with my phone in fairly poor light!

The blobs are then blended in using a variety of dry brushes.

Hopefully you can see the fading effect. The next step is to break it up a bit with some chromatic variation (blue oil) and random staining (brown). Note the brown is concentrated around the leading edge of the panel to represent grime from the panel line.

These are blended in a similar way to above. Now I have you all in suspense, I'm afraid I was interrupted and didn't get a shot of the finished panel, but perhaps you can see it in the context of the overall airframe which has now had this process completed. I'll try and get a shot of this panel specifically in the next update.

I've lost some paint from the wing leading edges due to handling which underscores the importance of making sure you get primer on your leading edges rather than just spraying from above and below! I'll touch these up. Noted for next time...

The underside is next up, which is tackled an entirely different way to the upper surfaces. Weathering on ther underside is less fading and more stains and streaking. The first step is some staining using oils and AK Interactive Streaking grime. Stains are painted on using a brush.

The stains are then blended in to your preferred intensity level. The central panel in the pictures above has already been done for comparison's sake. I've also started some streaking from control surface hinges and rivets, but more on that later. Here's the finished product.

Staining was made heavier in the central fuselage area and decreasing as you move out along the wing. The panel in the centre of the starboard wing has been left largely untreated to represent a more recently repaired or repainted panel. You'll remember this was planned back at the pre-shading stage in post #226.

All this work has been sealed with a light coat of Pledge in preparation for the last stage. I'm closing in on the final stages now guys and should be done within the next week. Thanks for checking in...

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Interesting process Kirby. thanks for sharing. So when you do the second stage, is that oil paint applied directly ans undiluted in small blobs, or has it also been thinned.

 

[turbo]

Interesting process Kirby. thanks for sharing. So when you do the second stage, is that oil paint applied directly ans undiluted in small blobs, or has it also been thinned.

For that part of the process it's applied directly undiluted Vic. I usually squeeze small blobs out onto a cardboard palette to absorb some of the linseed oil and apply directly from there.

 

[Vic Balshaw]

Thanks Kirby.

 

[Crimea_River]

Thanks for the explanation Kirby. It helps me to respect the process and results more. Initially, when you spoke of filtering, I equated it to dot filtering but I see that you include what I would term a wash as part of the process. The only other time I saw dot filtering done and expained, the author streaked the dots rather than drybrushing and blending them in and I was not impressed with the result and frankly though that he ruined his finish. Yours looks much better and I see it's something that I might try.

Are you applying the oil-based filtering over acrylic paint and clear coat? No issues?

 

[Wayne Little]

great work Kirby.

 

[turbo]

The only other time I saw dot filtering done and expained, the author streaked the dots rather than drybrushing and blending them in and I was not impressed with the result and frankly though that he ruined his finish. Yours looks much better and I see it's something that I might try.

Are you applying the oil-based filtering over acrylic paint and clear coat? No issues?

I agree Andy, I don't like oil dot filtering where you just streak it all over the place so I use the oils in a much more rational way. And yes, the oils can be used over acrylic paints and varnishes with no issues. In fact, it's an advantage because if you don't like how it's turned out you can simply wipe it off with white spirit with no adverse effects.