**** DONE: Matchbox 1/72 Bf110 VVS group build

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Thanks Wayne and Andy
Yep after five goes at sawing filing and "Ping" I decided to call it a day.
 
Help me understand. Are you trying to shape the clear parts before you glue them on or after? Before is difficult, but if you CA glue a rough piece of clear plastic onto the model first, then shape, sand, and polish it, there's less chance it'll go into orbit.
 
Andy I was trying to do a rough shaping before I glued them in place but as they were very small about 2 x 1 x 1 mm I tried to get them to a reasonably workable size before gluing them in place. Thinking about it now I should have got them done before I did the painting but it was one of those jobs I was putting off doing until I had to.
CA glue and I do not get on it will stick everywhere except where I want it to so I try and avoid using it whenever possible.
 
OK. Too bad about the CA as it's pretty useful stuff. Not sure what you have locally but here I can get some very thin plastic tube that can be inserted into the nozzle of the CA container for much finer control. Makes for much less mess. The other thing I do is put a blob of the gap filling superglue (thicker and slower drying) on a piece of scrap and then use a toothpick or equivalent to apply it the the area I want.
 

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You have done a brilliant job Lewis and Oh that ping sound, very frustrating. Each of us has their own way of forming the nav lights, sometimes I do them on the model before spraying and other times I do them separate by sticking the colour plastic to a small strip of Evergreen usually a 2.5 square chunk and then initially grind it down to the approximate shape and the file and smooth until then shape you want. I then keep it on this stick until needed and remove it with a very sharp blade but make sure before doing this that you can control the ping effect, like a scrunched up tissue that you cut the lens into.
 
Thanks for the advice and encouragement folks
Would this AC have a yellow theater band round the fuselage? There isn't one on the profile but that is about 30 years old I have seen them applied both before and after the numerals easy enough tho do tho.
 
Haven't had time to check fully Lewis but I would expect a yellow theater band on the fuselage just behind the trailing edge of the wings and in front of the unit codes.
 
Cheers Andy Did a bit of digging and was able to find a few Wespen kites. From the codes mine looks like being from VI ZG 1 I only found one with the same codes which did have the theater band so I have given it two coats of future to protect the decals and will mask and spray that on tonight
 
Did the band last night and added the long aerial on the underside one part made from stretched sprue the other from wire Lots of wailing and gnashing of teeth involved in that job with a few "Pings" just for good measure. Now have a better idea of how to go about it on the Airfix build tho. also added the D/F loop and one of the long range tanks will get the other on tonight along with the rest of the aerials and the mass balances. Will post pics when done.
 
Pics as promised
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Not sure of a few things. Paint mass balances/pitot to match yellow outer wings ? Tone down white on canopy or do it all grey? Centres of spinners black or drilled out?
Let me know what you think
 
Hi Lewis. Looks nicely grunged up, mate- just like it should!

My thoughts on your questions. I doubt that anyone would have taken the time in the field to mask the mass balance so I'd go with the yellow at that location. Pitot tube - care would have been taken to not get paint into the tube so some covering of the instrument end would likely have been done but I would not extend the yellow out the length of the tube. I'd leave it the base green/gray or have the white wash on it. The instrument end would be a natural metal finish. I might have left the canopy frames in RLM 74 or 75 as the white wash was field applied and generally not applied to the frames - at least in most pics I've seen. The center of the spinners on the 110 C/D/E were open, exposing the prop shaft so if you want to be accurate, you should drill them out - see pic below.
 

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