**** DONE: Mk1 Spit 92 Sq BoB Group Build.

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Now I do not know what all you goons have been doing out there but I have been hard at work here.
I tried something a little different tonight I hand painted the outline of the camo using the guidelines and pics Terry through out there.The paint has to go down flat and what I did was paint the line then stroke it back to the center of the color;the camo section.Now once the pattern was laid out I went to the air brush dual action @15psi and thin lines filled it in.Some areas I might of had to do them up 3X times to a point I was satisfied.I would usually make mask for a 1/72 scale for I believe that in this small of scale the demarcation lines should be hard.

Oh ya see how in the 23 pic no tape what did I tell you I cannot wait to get that stuff off and look at the results probably was not even 10mins.
 

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That's turned out really good Kevin. Have you got a pic of the aircraft with the Sky spinner? The black spinners weren't re-painted in Sky until November 1940, after the Battle, at the same time as the Sky tail band was added.
 
Now Terry when you mentioned in the BOB Bits the 9" bars for the tail that would be the bigger ones that go from the rudder all the way to the front of the tail right?
 
No, each stripe is equal width, and extend from the top of the horizontal rudder line, running forward from the vertical rudder line. This will leave the forward area of the fin in camouflage colour. I'll try to post you a pic later, but meanwhile check your references for this Squadron, as some squadrons had a slightly different style of application.
The only type I know of which had all of the forward fin in red was the Hurricane, and then it depended on which squadron.
Basically, on the Spit, it should look as it probably does on the box art. In 1/72nd scale, the three stripes will be a total of approximately 3.75 mm wide.
 
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Here you go Kevin. It's clearer in the profiles than most B&W photos.
The top one is the earlier, 8 inch stripes, bottom one the later, 9 inch stripes. Note that both could be seen during the period, due to constraints of the Battle, so it's worth checking your references. Notice on the later, 9 inch version, that the red, although overlapping the leading edge of the fin, doesn't go all the way to the forward edge at the base.
Hope this helps.
 

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She is deaclaed out and looking rather glossy at the moment but that should change tomorrow night hopefully going to let that last coat of clear dry well.Now Terry you look at the first two pics and everyone else can look at the MKIX.Any suggestions on a different color lightbulb?
 

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Looking good Kevin. As for the lighting, it's not that far off actually. I think maybe you used flash as well in the second pic, of the underside, judging by the colour of the shadow. Flash at close range will reflect its own colour temperature off a white background, giving a blue cast sometimes. You could use a blue 'daylight' bulb, available from artist supply stores, but you would have to set the white balance against this when you use it, by including a piece of white paper/card in the calibration shot. These bulbs work well with film cameras, as they're optimised for the correct colour temperature and balance, but some digital cameras get confused by them, and record the blue, like in the flash !
As long as you have a decent wattage of light which the camera can cope with for average lens/shutter settings, then again, just calibrate the white balance for this lighting set-up by including a piece of white paper in the first shot when setting the balance. The camera will then record tones correctly, or as near as possible. Without setting the whiter balance, the poor little electronic gizmos in the camera get confused, and choose the nearest shade it can find to white, for example a yellow object, or a light colour which might have yellow in it, like 'Sky' paint, often at the expense of other colours.
Hope this helps, and it's not as complex as it sounds - only takes a few seconds and one exposure.
 
Thks guys she has been a rather fun build.My time off from work has ended but I will keep hammering this one out along with"White 1". cheers
 
Well I have darken the panel lines using future and going back with umber+thinner OK result had to do some touchups.To be honest I think enamel clear gloss then acrylic over seems to be the best I will find out on "White 1".I did som chipping with a pencil and the pics show alittle of it the sun was in the wrong spot(it's 11am).I still need to add some areial lines from the tailpalnes,paint lights and the mast.Pics.......
 

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