Meteor NF.12, 46 Sqn, RAF, 1/48th scale.

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Thanks Hugh and Karl.

I just don't believe the run of cr@p luck and hold ups going on lately !
I started to spray the MSG, having mixed it as before, with Humbrol No.64 Light Aircraft Grey and No.157 Azure, as used on my Mosquito FB.VI, but ran into problems very quickly, as it would spray, and then just sort of 'trickle', with air spraying, but no paint.
I stripped and cleaned the airbrush, thinking it had clogged, possibly with a tiny lump of pigment, or some other foreign object, and tried again, only to have the same thing happen. Tried again, thinning the paint more this time and, although it sprayed for a couple of seconds longer, the same thing happened again.
So, by a process of elimination, trying another airbrush, with the same paint mix used originally, and then with the paint thinned more, and getting the same result, I realised it was the compressor at fault, something I had suspected, but discounted, the last time I used it, on the Stirling model.
The pressure is falling as I spray, which is indicated on the pressure gauge as usual, but it would seem that the tank is not maintaining the 'stored' pressure and, although air is being delivered, and flowing, the pressure is not enough to cope with the paint - neat thinners sprays OK, but of course that's a much 'lighter' medium, with 'thinner' viscosity.

PIC 1. The underside of the tail planes and fuselage was sprayed, after two to three 'passes' of the airbrush, the final 'pass' being with the paint thinned a lot more. Note that what looks like a seam on the ventral tank is supposed to be there, and is moulded, recessed detail, as is the line aft of the nose wheel bay, which I lightly engraved, having already eliminated the joint, after checking scale plans !
PIC 2. The sides and upper surfaces of the fuselage after thinning the paint more. Note the 'marbled' effect, where the thin coverage is allowing the base coat of white to show through. The paint is still wet in this shot.

I could struggle on, and try to get the MSG sprayed at least, but there's a very great risk of getting a poor finish, with 'sags' and runs, especially spraying grey onto grey plastic, where it's slightly difficult to see exactly how the paint is covering. And, of course, trying to then spray the Dark Green, and especially the demarcation of the camouflage pattern, would be a nightmare, if possible at all !
It would seem that there's a leak somewhere in the compressor, so consequently, I've had to 'bite the bullet' and I've ordered another compressor, which should arrive by Tuesday, or Wednesday at the latest.
It'll be tight now, meeting my deadline of Sunday 28th May (allowing me time for final checks, and packing of the models etc. before departure on 31st May), but, given there are no further painting problems, I should make it. Meanwhile, I'll finish off the bits and pieces ready to attach when the painting, decals and clear coat are finished, and make a start on the 1/72nd scale Meteor NF.14.

Oh Lord, giveth me strength, before I sucumbeth to the big, heavy hammer thou didst supplieth for such trials, and beateth the living cr@p out of something. For verily, my patience is ****ing straineth !!!!


 
Sorry to hear the compressor causes nothing but troubles, my friend. I hope you can get it sorted out soon.
 
Thanks my friend, and I hope so too.
With luck, the new compressor should be with me by Wednesday, at the latest, so I should still have time to get this one finished, although I would have preferred a little more leeway !
My own fault really, as I suspected there was a compressor fault, but discounted it after testing a couple of weeks ago, just spraying thinners, and not really allowing for the difference in spraying enamels.
 
It's got a small cylinder my friend, and I suspect that's where the leak is. Never had this sort of problem with my old piston compressors !
 
Yes that's the possible reason for that. Is this an oilless one? If it has the oil some of that could be lost somehow. Perhaps because of the temperature. Hasn't it been getting of more overheating recently? If it has that's the lack of the oil that drained or just evaporated. It would be enough to fill the oil in. The one used for fridge compressor is fine and can be.
 
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Oilless compressors are the way to go. Down the road neighbor whom I actually just met at our LHS, has an old TCP compressor, 12+ years, oilless and uses it fairly consistently 5 days of the week and still running strong. Whereas was just reading about a fellow that uses SparMaxx and is on his 3rd compressor in 9 years. They can be a real bother when they don't work! Wish I knew a magic brand I could recommend that would be a buy it and forget it type thing, but I don't. Heres to hoping it comes in quickly and sorts your problem out with a minimum of fuss!
 
I honestly don't know the full specs of this compressor, and I doubt I can repair it in the time allowed - but I will strip it down some time.
The oil-less, piston type I used for around five years, I gave to Karl, when I bought this one, and that was simple, and without vices, although running at a fixed pressure.
Let's hope the new one, when it arrives, will at least let me complete these commissions - after that, I'll have more time to use that bl**dy big hammer - which normally sorts things !!
 
Terry I think I have an oilless compressor (of chinese manufacture), with a tank and set pressure . Some years ago I had problems which sound very similar to what is bedevilling you. I traced it to the drain plug at the base of the of the pressure tank. there was an O-ring around that lug that had perished and was letting air past the seal when under pressure. I replaced that O-ring and problem was solved.

so, are there sealing rings around the peripherals that might have developed a leak? I would also check your hose connections, particularly close or under the airbrush connection point.

I have a friend in Canberra who claims that he once used a paint (I don't know the brand) that was corrosive to the neoprene sealer and ate at the Oring till it ruined the seal. It might be that he used a solvent cleaner on the lines that did this.

Anyway, my point is that whilst it is likely that the problem relates to the internal workings of the compressor, it might be one of the sealing rings, or even a hole in the air hose itself.
 
Thanks all.

I haven't (yet) been able to check for a drain plug, or any other possible internal fault, as the compressor is enclosed in a metal case. I'll open and strip this when a) my hands are up to the job, and b) when I have more time to 'fiddle' with it.
The priority at the moment is to get these models finished - hence ordering a new compressor. Even if I do find the fault, finding a source and obtaining the parts and doing the repair will involve too much non-productive time, and I just can't afford that.
I'd already checked the air hose for leaks, without finding any, and just in case, I changed over to a spare hose too.
 
Thanks Glenn, and yes, had it not been for the compressor problem, it would probably be finished by now.
Just hoping I can now get it done by the end of this coming weekend, which will give me time to get the NF.14 done, and then concentrate on packing the models, and preparing for my trip to Holland.
 
The new compressor arrived today, and it's more or less the same type I had around 25 years ago, an oil-less, piston type, although a lot quieter, just a low buzz. Had a quick test earlier, and it works very well, so I should now be able to get back on track, and get the model painted by tomorrow - got some more thinners, and going to re-spray the Medium Sea Grey later tonight. Need a rest first, as I've been busy all day, and my hands and wrists are rather painful.
The fault on the 'old' compressor definitely appears to be a leak at the tank, as the pressure drops rapidly to zero when the compressor is switched off, which it shouldn't, and didn't do before.

Pic of the new compressor below.


 

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