Revell 1/32 Spitfire MK1 #4555

Wayne Little · Oct 24, 2012

prem895 said:
What is this internet thing people are talking about and do you think it will catch on?

Naaaaahh! won't work...

Airframes · Oct 24, 2012

Internet? It'll never catch on. It's as daft as those new-fangled flying machines - I mean, who would want to fly in the sky like a bird? Next thing, you'll be telling me people make models of the contraptions!
Heck, I'm just getting over the shock of seeing one of those noisy horseless carriages which seem to have become popular for some reason .....

prem895 · Oct 24, 2012

I just got my new 000 00000 detail brushes along with the external paint for this bird. Tonight I will attempt to correct the instument panel pilot seat as per CR's attached pics.

prem895 · Oct 29, 2012

Hi chaps, have been busy,but here is an update. Now that my daughter has brought my camera back. I had a few fit issues with the fuge and wings to the fuge. 1st the fuge was warped so I glued it in stages starting at the tail and worked forward. Not bad. As the pics will show you can see some problem areas. I filled the gaps with Contacta Pro and sanded. It looks like the gaps are still there ,but they are now flush as you will see (I hope) when I spray it with grey primer.Off to the paint shop.

prem895 · Oct 29, 2012

I just wanted to get some feedback on exterior paint. Should I use Revell 59,68 82 or Hu 90,(102/116/163) 29. I myself am leaning toward the Revell. The picture does not represent the colours too well,but you pros out there know what they really look like. So what shall it be Rev or Hu or a combo of both. What say you

Crimea_River · Oct 29, 2012

Some good attention to the seams there. Can't comment on the paint as I don't use either brand.

prem895 · Oct 29, 2012

Well here it is after primer. Not to bad,but not as good as I thought it would be. I needed to sand some more, I can see that all to clear,but the finest sandpaper I have at the moment is 120 alum ozide and was afraid that I might just go a little too far with this grit and really bugger it. 220 would have been a better finishing grit I think. Well even though I am a little disappoiinted in the result,it is certainly better than the P-38. So I figure I must be getting better. I hope the camo paint might hide some of the mistakes.Any advice guys,and was it a mistake to use Contacta Pro glue as filler? I tried using Milliput silver/grey last time and found it was like trying to sand concrete. Is there a filler that is easier to work with ,sand and finish ? Will drywall patch filler work?(Don't laugh)It sands well and is easy to work with.Not to mention it is easy to get a great smooth finish,but will it stick or just fall off? I would also like to ask for some advice on camo painting. I don't have an airbrush so I will be using brushes. Can your please explain the process. I hope I am not asking too much,but if I don't ask I will probably FUBAR this one as well. Thanks guys

Airframes · Oct 30, 2012

For straight out of the tin, I would go with the Humbrol, as they are the closest. You need to use Humbrol Dark Green(Satin) 163, as their 'traditional' Dark Green Matt 30 is far to bright these days, and Humbrol matt 29 Dark Earth. The Humbrol 90 is good enough in this large scale, but if you wish, add a very small spot of yellow and the same of white, which will get it closer.

Crimea_River · Oct 30, 2012

It's good that you see that your seams need more work. Some people would just say "good enough" and move on - good attitude!

You need to get yourself some wet/dry sandpaper. 120 is way to course and 220 is even pretty rough and should be used with caution. Start with the rougher grades, using water on the paper and then go over the areas with progressively finer grades until you get a finish that's as smooth as the plastic that you started with. That means getting grades up to 1200 or even 2000 grit (I've heard of people using even finer than this bt have never done so myself).

I'm not familiar with Contact Pro but it sounds like contact cement. I'd be afrad something like that would distort the plastic. Get yourself some Squadron putty which any hobby shop that calls itself one should carry. Drywall compound will not work. It will chip and fall off so don't waste your time.

I don't brush paint my finishes but some very nice work can be achieved with brushes. There's a tutorial somewhere on this forum written by Terry but if I can say one thing, it's don't overload the brush and don't overwork the finish.

meatloaf109 · Oct 30, 2012

Go to a beauty supply store, they have sticks used for manicuring fingernails. These are perfect for modeling going down in grit to ones that you can use to polish canopy pieces.

prem895 · Oct 30, 2012

I am not going to let these problems go. The paint just makes it stand out even more. I will not let this defeat me.I am going to sand these spots down until I am satisfied or there is no plane left to sand. CR this is the glue. Contacta has a long syringe type needle and is it does not give you the string you get from the good old Testers.Great for dummies like me.And it does weld.

Wurger · Oct 30, 2012

prem895 said:
I would also like to ask for some advice on camo painting. I don't have an airbrush so I will be using brushes. Can your please explain the process.

As requested... A few tips firstly. Here you are a couple of diagrams that let you understand the way you should follow working work with a brush. In addition, the rule is that a lightest colour of camo shoukd be applied firstly.

And here you are the easiest way for getting a camo spots for the Spitfire. First of all , paint the undersides with the Sky S-type paint applying it a little bit on sides as well. . But make it sure if there was the variant of a camo used. You should use a black colour for the port half of the wing for Spits from 20.11.1940-22.04.1941. Then mask with strips of masking tape the paint on sides making the "borderline" between undersides and top camo colours. The next step is to mark with a pencil lines for camo spots on top surfaces and sides. Then paint them with a correct colours. The lightest one should go first.

prem895 · Oct 30, 2012

Wurger,Iwas wondering when I would hear from you on this Thanks for the tips

Wurger · Oct 30, 2012

You'r welcome.

prem895 · Oct 30, 2012

I am going to wet sand the high spots and make them flush. I just can't let this go by without taking action. Do you think wet sand with 600 grit will do the job?

Wurger · Oct 30, 2012

800-900 or 1000 grit would be better. But the 600 should work as well.

Crimea_River · Oct 30, 2012

Agreed. But not that you may need to fill also between sandings.

prem895 · Oct 30, 2012

I am sanding as I write,and as CR said filling as needed. I refuse to have any gaps or high spots. I want this part to be upto Airframe,Wurger are CR specs. Here is the finished result,looks good eh. I hope I didn't take the sanding toooooo far.

.

prem895 · Oct 30, 2012

HA HA. This is some before and some almost finished. Must buy 600-1000 sandpaper tomorrow so I can make glass. Need some help with re-scribing panel lines and posably rivits I know it looks shite now but I will make the Supermarine factory proud. Till tomorrow. Be safe all. BTW GD tail wheel

Crimea_River · Oct 30, 2012

Getting there. The finer grit paper should get those scratches out.

Revell 1/32 Spitfire MK1 #4555

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