Avenger II, 857 Squadron, FAA, HMS Indomitable, December 1944, Group Build.

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

Thank you Wojtek, Andy and Jan.
I've just done a trial fit for future reference, and found out the bomb bay doors won't bl**dy fit!
Looks like I'll have to modify the mounting brackets. B*ll*cks, just when I'd got them set at the correct angles!
 
Yeah Cory, that was my first thought. But, the white centre spot is smaller than usual, although I know that type was also used on the SEAC roundel. It's just that it looked more like the NZ roundel, in the dark colour, without the bars. So far, I've seen 3 different designs for NZ roundels, but I don't know enough about the PTO, or the units, to identify what's what yet!
I've learned more about the PTO, CBI etc in this GB so far, than I ever have previously!
 
I understand where you're coming from Terry, but it is certainly a FAA plane. If it was NZ, the circle in hte center would be hollow, and you'd see blue in the middle of that.

Here's another picture from the same site to show you:

2527541926_0a5bf2dd7a_o.png


I have some way better ones on my Mac, but the battery's dead and I'm taping off my Corsair, so I will post them later.
 
I think I understand now that you've mentioned the blue in the centre. Bl**dy confusing though, with different forms of SEAC and Pacific Fleet and NZ markings! The really awkward ones are the FAA SEAC roundel, with a white outline - I was going to do an all blue FAA Corsair originally, but couldn't find, or adapt the roundels to show that thin white outer ring!
Typical bl**dy navy, got to be different! They should stick to their boats, or ships whatever they call them, and leave the aircraft to people who don't drink pink gin and don't call walls bulkheads, or doors hatches, and can tell you the time properly, instead of saying it's three bl**dy bells or some such nonsense!!
 
This should clarify things quite a bit. I only did Pacific as the European Roundels are fairly straightforward.

FAARoundelChart-1.png


Below is the Corsair I'm referring to.
 

Attachments

  • corsair-99-royal-navy.jpg
    corsair-99-royal-navy.jpg
    40 KB · Views: 82
It's getting more confusing, as there was a SEAC fuselage roundel that was more like the RAAF one, and a Pacific Fleet roundel and bar that had a white outline to the bars, but yellow outline to the roundel. The upper wing SEAC roundels have also been seen with the same proportions as the fuselage roundel, and the white outlined SEAC roundel was only normally seen on aircraft that were blue, mainly Corsairs.
Then there were aircraft that joined the Pacific Fleet from SEAC, but retained the SEAC roundels, like the Avenger I'm doing (according to the FAA Archive, FAA Officers Assoc and other sources), which have appeared in pics and paintings. But, these dispensed with the SEAC white stripes on wings, tailplanes and fin!
And then, of course, there was the two-tone blue SEAC markings, mainly, but not just, RAF, also used in the Pacific!!
Thank whoever I don't normally model this theatre!
Anyway, I've had to change plans regarding the build sequence.
Because of the fit problem with the bomb - bay doors, I've had to disassemble them, with some cost to the paintwork (Grrr!), and fit the hinge and actuator mechanisms into the bay, along with the upper pair of doors. I'm not sure yet if I'll be able to get away without fitting the lower (inner) doors until later, as the assemblies are still setting. I'm not touching anything until they are totally 100% firm, otherwise they'll end up crooked.
This will make the masking and painting a little more tricky, and there's the possibility of some slight runs in the paint around the doors and the outer edges of the bay, but I'd rather risk that than totally f**k up the overall paint finish by trying to position and glue the whole assembly later, now that I know it'll flop about like Lucky after a long session!
If anyone is considering building this excellent kit, I'd reccomend lots of trial fitting, and probably ignore the instructions re the bomb doors, and fit them the way I'm now doing. The reason being, the hinges and associated mechanism assemblies are to scale, which means they are thin, and therefore move about under the weight of the doors as they are being positioned. Superglue can't be used as a first fix, as the whole gubbins needs to be manouvered and positioned. I'll confirm my modified method once I know it's successful, and I'll post some pics once it's done.
Because EVERYTHING is to scale, some of the locating and fitting has to be spot on, but it does mean that joints, for instance at the wings and tailplanes, are true to life. The scale is so good, that even the sliding canopy rails look right!
So, that's enough waffel from me, I've got some bomb doors to bash... I mean carefully locate and cement!
 
No probs Cory, it was OK. There's just a lot of variation, which makes it a minefield for a 'PTO iliterate' like me!!
 
No probs Cory, it was OK. There's just a lot of variation, which makes it a minefield for a 'PTO iliterate' like me!!

Ahhh come on now, this isnt that bad. Im getting ready to find that window now. :lol: Personally I was hoping some one would build a japanese aircraft to research on.
 
Ah! Forgot to tell you Paul, sorry! The 'blister' windows are included in the kit, and fit over the rectangular openings for the 'U.S.' windows. But, if you've got a pic, particularly close up, it would help, as it would be nice to know if the opening was changed to circular or, if not, if the metal either side, which would be inside the 'blister', was painted in, for example, zinc chromate, interior green or the exterior colour, I'll be able to tell even from a B&W shot. In fact, any decent pic would do!
 
Ah! Forgot to tell you Paul, sorry! The 'blister' windows are included in the kit, and fit over the rectangular openings for the 'U.S.' windows. But, if you've got a pic, particularly close up, it would help, as it would be nice to know if the opening was changed to circular or, if not, if the metal either side, which would be inside the 'blister', was painted in, for example, zinc chromate, interior green or the exterior colour, I'll be able to tell even from a B&W shot. In fact, any decent pic would do!

Hummm well I havent found the perfect picture yet but these.
 

Attachments

  • Scan0001.jpg
    Scan0001.jpg
    125.5 KB · Views: 112
  • 1.JPG
    1.JPG
    74.5 KB · Views: 131
  • 2.JPG
    2.JPG
    23.7 KB · Views: 141

Users who are viewing this thread

Back