**** DONE: 1/32 F4U-1 - Aircraft Nose Art GB.

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Nice I.P.. My little Canon Point n Shoot seems to want to focus on everything but what I need focused. In your second photo, it would be doing its damnedest to focus in on your little bottle, top right. Haven't used my Rebel yet on models. Engine looks sweet as well.

Geo
 
I know what you mean about the focusing Cory! I've recently bought a Nikon DSLR and lenses, and find the various focusing options a real pain, more so with fast-moving subjects, like air show fly bys! And manual focusing on such subjects is a 'No No', as it's too cumbersome and not ergonomically suitable for rapid, delicate changes.
I'm more used to the positive, Fresnel screen system of 'traditional' 35mm SLR's, with a split focus center spot, where you can immediately see what's in focus. These DSLR multi-point, adjustable systems are all very well, but can be fooled very easily!
For model photography, I prefer to use my Fuji 'bridge' camera - much less hassle, and easier to handle. Just wish I could afford an Olympus DSLR which looks like, and works like, a 'traditional' film SLR - but costs around £4,000 just for the body !!!
 
Really looking good Cory.

Thanks!

Yeah I can't even imagine trying to get airborne shots Terry, not that I have a proper lens. These DSLRs are insanely expensive. Mine's basically bottom of the barrel (wish I had gone one up to get video function) and it was still a good few hundred dollars. As for fooling in the focus area, I get that all the time. Want to focus on the middle? Nope, left is what you get! I know there's a setting to force it to a section, but again, I can't remember where it is and I haven't bothered to learn.
 
Yep, I'm still finding my way around the camera. It's a Nikon D3100, their entry level DSLR ( I think replacing the D60 and D3000 ?), with a 18 - 55mm Nikon VR lens, a 55 - 300mm Nikon VR lens and a 70 - 300mm macro, Sigma, non-VR lens.
The camera itself has, in my opinion, far too many features on it, including video, and the focusing options alone are mind-boggling!
I've 'missed' a few shots at the two air shows I've done so far, purely due to either selecting the wrong focusing mode, or the camera/lens wanting to re-focus at the wrong time! With a traditional SLR and lens, I would have caught these no problem.
No doubt I'll find the best settings eventually, and of course the huge bonus is not having to buy film and pay for processing and printing, with the really big bonus of not needing to re-load at the critical moment, with between 850 and around 1,400 exposures being possible.
I'm still not totally happy overall though, as the whole set-up is off-balance and cumbersome, even allowing for my knackered hands, compared to the Olympus 35mm system I used for 30 years.
 
Yeah, I think my brother has a D3000 which replaced mine, didn't know the 3000 was out of circulation already. For the settings, yeah it's just one of those things that will come with time I imagine, as with most things. I suppose I'm of the opinion that I'd rather it have them than not. I imagine using one camera for 30 years would make getting used to a new one pretty tricky! You've had that camera longer than I've been alive...
 
I have a biog Canon, but my shots for here and gen photo work is an old Pentax Optio 555 I got cheap on that auction site! I got it because Wayne uses one and I never have a problem. I can bracket F stops with the press of a button, auto focus and will hold focus distance. Movie clips as well. Easy Peasy.

Sometimes simple is best.

BTW you're work is lookin really nice.
 
I agree Bill, which is why I use the Fuji 'bridge' camera for all but fast-moving subjects - well. almost all.
I used to do the same with the 35mm stuff too - instead of digging out one of two bodies and four lenses, I used a simple Vivitar 'point and shoot' compact for 'ordinary' stuff.
Cory, I think even my relatively new D3100 has now been replaced by the D3200 - and I only got it in January! I looked at the next couple in the Nikon range, but they're basically the same cameras, just with extra features such as a swivelling screen, and maybe a few more MP - things I don't need, especially for an extra £150 to £300 !!
I was going to get a Cannon, which had a depth of field preview, a useful feature for model photography, but there was a better 'package deal' on the Nikon, which allowed me to use the savings on a few more accessories.
 
I use a Canon Rebel DSLR with a tripod. For close-up model shots, I use a 50mm macro lens, set the camera to aperture preferred and close the aperture down to about F22 rr 25 to get the maximum depth of field. Of course, this means a 3 or 4 second exposure, hence the tripod.
 
Yep, I've used the DSLR in a similar way, stopped right down, just as I did with 35mm SLRs. But for the 'action' shots, that darned focusing system is still a pain - until I get used to it, and find the optimum settings.
 
Now wait a second! I reckon I asked for a better picture of this Nose Art to inspect certain curves! :D lol
 
A remote shutter release helps too. Avoids potential shake.

Terry, I agree with you on the action shots. Autofocus has its challenges for that, especially while trying to lock onto an object while panning. I've tended toward the center focus as opposed to full.
 
One of those I don't have Andy.

Here are a couple photos I took last night. I've since gotten the fuselage halves together and have moved on to the wings. The potential is there to maybe get some paint on it this evening.

84009113-448f-4180-8329-089f80aebf40_zpse7122d2a.jpg


DSC_0229_zps0eee579c.jpg


The seat belts were a success because I didn't want to die after putting them in!
 
Thanks for that info Andy. I ended up using center-weighted focus for the Cosford model shots, and I think that's what I'll be using in future. If the focusing ring was where the zoom barrel is, and vice versa, it would be so much easier to go manual focus!
 

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