**** DONE: 1/48 P-47D - Aircraft in Foreign Service WWII

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It might be the thinner you used for the Humbrol. But also it might have been caused by "age" of the colour and the thinner.
 
I've never thinned enamels so you are probably right about the age. It's a new tin but it's probably about 5 years ago when I bought it and lord knows how long it's been on the store shelf. At 1:30a.m. my time, it was dry to the touch so I am adding some color to the cockpit sides. Photos in a bit.

Geo
 
Nice bit of detail on the panel Geo and as for the Humbrol paint, it could be a number of factors, age sounds like a good reason or the paints chemical mix has got out of wack somehow.
 
Good stuff Geo.
Judging by the approximate time you obtained the Humbrol paint, I think it will be a fault of the paint, not your use of it. At that time, there were many problems, including paint which would not dry at all, and could exhibit a 'rubbery' finish.
These problems have persisted, along with others, to the point that Hornby products, the owners of the Humbrol brand name, have now moved production back to the UK.
Since the demise of Humbrol as a company, and the closure of the Humberside factory, the paint was made outside the UK, with, as we've witnessed, many, many quality problems. Hopefully, this will now cease, and we can expect to see the Humbrol brand back where it used to be, at the top.
 
Cockpit is together and now I'm debating how to tackle the seam that will run through the wheel well when I join the wings to the fuselage, the problem being that the top of the wheel well is checkerboard and any filling and sanding will remove it. I've got some fairly thin plastic so I'll see if I can shim it without screwing anything up. If not, I may just have to live with it and no one will ever see the bottom of the model again.



Geo
 
Hang on, it might take all three thumbs and extra hand to do this. Keep in mind that the top of the wing/fuselage is flush.

I'm beck and this is as good as I get, the gap in the well isn't as severe as shown, more like the rear of the join. Still annoying none the less.



Geo
 
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A thin strip of plastic or stretched sprue, inserted into the joint, will look like part of the structure, like a reinforcing rib. Once painted, it'll look convincing, and hide the joint. That's what I did on my Academy kit and the old Monogram kit.
 
I would check on botch surfaces ( at the wing root and the fuselage one ) firstly . I think it is possible to get a tighter fitting.. If it isn't, I would use a putty made of talc powder and some of paint. The excess of a such putty can be easy removed with a cotton bud soaked with the thinner.
 
Thanks kindly gents. Before I glue the fuselage halves together, does anyone have a preferred method of gluing the wings on a -47? Should I glue them on before the fuselage is together, ensuring maximum bonding pressure but risking dihedral symmetry, or after, still risking dihedral symmetry as the wings have to be added one at a time.

Geo
 
NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If the halves are a little skewiff then the wings will not have the proper dihedral!!!!!!!!!

Here's what I do...... others may have a simpler method.

AFTER the fuselage is together and Finished, seams filled and sanded and ready for paint and set.

I support the fuselage by the RUDDER from both sides so it is Vertical. Like tape it to a couple of blocks, even 2 stacks of Legos will work. It must be stable.

Then hold the wings in place, no glue yet. Support each wing near the center of each side just so they balance, sorta. Now check the height of each wing tip from the bench so the measurement is the same. NOW check the fit at the join to the fuselage..... for the Real gaps! Now make the fill adjustments. You may have to take some of the plastic off that you added with a flat file. Never trust the kit to have the proper angle of attachment!

When you are satisfied, then glue.

Now After the wings are set, do the same for the horizontals on the tail, supporting by the wings this time. Fit, measure the tips, adjust the seams at the joint, then glue.

Hope this helps.
Bill
 
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Yep. That's exactly how I do it. It's critical to get the fuselage supported perfectly vertical, so I use a square on a flat surface and check both the vertical stab line as well as the seam at the nose. Remember, there may be a twist at the rudder.
 
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