**** DONE: 1/48 Polikarpov I-16 Type 10 - Winter War / Eastern War WWII

[JKim]

Username: JKim
First name:John
Category: Intermediate
Scale: 1/48
Manufacturer: Eduard
Model Type: Polikarpov I-16 Type 10 Profipack Edition
Aftermarket addons: Mostly OOB since the Profipack comes with lots of extras like PE and masks. May add a home-concocted detail or two, if I'm feeling brave.

This will be my first build here at WW2. A few days ago, I didn't even know what a Group Build was and now, thanks to the guidance of this great community, I will be experiencing a Group Build for the first time! I will be building a Polikarpov I-16 Type 10 flown by General Major Ivan Lakeev circa 1941.

 

[destrozas]

they are welcome to this working group is all an experience and learn a lot at all.
look forward to seeing some of this magnificent aircraft.

 

[Crimea_River]

Glad we were able to drag you in John. Now, about that $500 entry fee, you can make the cheque out to me.

 

[JKim]

Ok... here we go!

Here is the kit... Eduard's 1/48 I-16 Type 10. I'm a bit of newbie and have never built an Eduard kit.

It's a Profipack Edition so it comes with lots of "aftermarket" type goodies in the box including a nice PE set, masks for the canopy and wheels, and decal options for four aircraft. The box is sturdier than a typical Hasegawa or Tamiya kit and parts are well bagged. The instructions are printed in color on heavy stock glossy paper. Very impressive!

I always experience hesitation when starting a model. I like looking at the complete sprues of all of the parts and part of me really hates snipping that first piece off! Weird eh? As I was admiring the fine detailing and subtle panel work on this kit, I identified a task that I could perform without removing any parts. The exhaust stacks are included as individual pieces (hurrah or will it be a pain in the butt... I'm not sure but it is commendable on Eduard's part). The output end of each stack is scooped out to simulate the openings, which is probably the limit of what can be done using the injection molding process but the effect is unconvincing. So I elected to hollow out the ends even more using a sharp Xacto knife. You can compare the difference between the unmodified stack on the left and one that's been hollowed on the right.

The sprues comes with LOTS of exhaust stacks. Probably enough for two aircraft. Referring the kit's instructions, I determined the number needed for this build and cut out that number plus a couple extra to finish the hollowing out process.

I performed the same operation with the wing guns and the venturi tube. All of the small parts feature mold seams that I've been trying to remove.

The I-16 has very little in the way of a canopy but Eduard has gone to the trouble of including pre-cut masks for the tiny windscreen. It wasn't a perfect fit but I suspect it will be more than adequate at normal magnification.

The photo etch sheet comes with a three-part instrument panel and a beautiful set of seat belts, both of which are pre-painted. What are your thoughts on pre-painted PE parts? I thought the whole point of modeling was to do this stuff yourself? Incidentally, Eduard gives the modeler no less than three options for the instrument panel: 1) decal, 2) PE, 3) molded. I went with the PE.

Ran into my first hurdle of this build. After I glued the PE instrument panel together, I put a drop of Elmer's glue into each instrument face to simulate glass. But the glue did not dry completely clear. Also I didn't like the strange shiny but grainy finish of the pre-painted panel.

I contemplated ditching the PE panel and using the molded one with the dials cut from the decal sheet But upon closer inspection, it appeared that the decal dials were slightly bigger than the molded dials. Plus I don't have a circular punch so cutting out each of those tiny dials would've been close to impossible. So I gave up on that. Using my Xacto and magnifying glass, I carefully pulled out the dried glue in each of the dials of the PE panel. It took a bit of time and I scratched off the paint in a couple of places but I was able to salvage the PE panel! I sprayed the entire panel with a coat of Alclad Clear Flat to even out that grainy finish. Instead of Elmer's glue, I put a drop of Future in the dials. Much better. Such a shame that it will be buried fairly far into the barrel of the fuselage.

That's it for now!

 

[Wurger]

 

[chris brown]

Welcome aboard and nice start on the kit!

 

[Wildcat]

Excellent work! This looks like a nice kit, I might have to get one for myself

 

[imalko]

Good start. Looking forward for more.

 

[Crimea_River]

Good stuff John. I personally like Eduard kits but they can tend to be a bit "over-engineered". For example, their Bf-110 kits have individual exhaust stubs - 24 of them for crying out loud! However, the surface details are second to none and the fit is generally pretty good, if you're careful. I built their Dora kit and loved it. Many seem to hate it, claiming fit issues that I didn't have.

I share your dislike of the finish on their instrument panels and the solution you have used is exactly what I do. A flat coat makes them look so much better. As for the pre-painted parts, I often hand paint over them anyway as many don't match the colours I use for the rest of the cockpit.

 

[mikewint]

Neat little aircraft reminds me of the old Gee Bee

 

[Lucky13]

 

[Wurger]

 

[Wayne Little]

Nice start!

 

[fubar57]

John, I just read your comment on my build and you mentioned you might be missing something. I've got a few books and some web links if you need anything. If you're stuck on something, stop, put the word out and chances are very great someone will have the answer. One thing most people miss are the two cut-out in the upper fuselage, just over the instrument panel. This allowed outside light to illuminate the panel...

...check yours to see if there are two circular "panel lines" there.

Geo

 

[JKim]

I apologize for not taking pictures of complete sprues and such! I see that it is a normal custom to do so and I can see the value of doing that... will remember for the next build!

A little more progress to report. The engine is a very basic representation but given the completeness of the cowling enclosure, it is probably more than adequate. I elected to add pushrods from stretched sprue (is this still considered OOB since the sprue came from the kit?).

Snapping the engine into the cowling, I check to see how visible the engine is... I don't think I'll expend any more effort on the engine. I bored out the cowling guns and have prepainted the insides of the barrel black to heighten the illusion of hollowness. I've done the same with the exhaust stacks.

A couple of things to do while the cockpit halves are not assembled yet. Based on my rudimentary research of the I-16, it appears that the plane had two holes in the top front of the fuselage underneath the front windscreen. I think it was to let in ambient light into the little cockpit, especially since the instrument panel is located fairly deep into the fuselage.

The kit represents this as small scribed circles, one on each fuselage half.

I elected to carefully bore these out.

After some lengthy contemplation, I decided to show the cockpit door in the open position. The photo etch set includes a nice rendition of the open door and since the cockpit opening is so small, I thought it would be nice to open it up a bit. The cutting scared me because of a lack of experience (and specialized tools). But it is a small door and I was able to do it pretty easily by using a combination of drill and file work.

Good stuff John. I personally like Eduard kits but they can tend to be a bit "over-engineered". For example, their Bf-110 kits have individual exhaust stubs - 24 of them for crying out loud! However, the surface details are second to none and the fit is generally pretty good, if you're careful. I built their Dora kit and loved it. Many seem to hate it, claiming fit issues that I didn't have.

I share your dislike of the finish on their instrument panels and the solution you have used is exactly what I do. A flat coat makes them look so much better. As for the pre-painted parts, I often hand paint over them anyway as many don't match the colours I use for the rest of the cockpit.

Your comment about Eduard kits being over-engineered is quite interesting. There are some "interesting" engineering choices they've made on the I-16, which I can't really explain. The exhaust stacks are individually molded and fit into openings in the fuselage. There are "backings" of those openings that the kit represents in two different ways, although they seem to be almost identical. For the top opening, they've provided a separate piece that is glued in. But for the bottom opening, the backing is part of the fuselage mold. Why not treat the openings the same way?

 

[JKim]

John, I just read your comment on my build and you mentioned you might be missing something. I've got a few books and some web links if you need anything. If you're stuck on something, stop, put the word out and chances are very great someone will have the answer. One thing most people miss are the two cut-out in the upper fuselage, just over the instrument panel. This allowed outside light to illuminate the panel...

View attachment 268814View attachment 268815

...check yours to see if there are two circular "panel lines" there.

Geo

Thanks for the tip Geo! That's one of the few things I DID notice! I am boring out the openings but will not be filling them in with clear plastic.

 

[fubar57]

Coming along nicely. I've been looking at the exhausts and I'm going to see if I can leave them off until the camo painting is complete otherwise masking is going to be a nightmare.

 

[JKim]

Coming along nicely. I've been looking at the exhausts and I'm going to see if I can leave them off until the camo painting is complete otherwise masking is going to be a nightmare.

I've been contemplating that question too. Due to how short the stacks are and the orientation of the openings, I'm leaning towards putting them in now and touching them up after the camo painting. I've also read at least one person putting them in AFTER the fuselage halves go together but prior to putting on the front cowl. If the front cowl fits well, the natural border that the cowling band creates may allow it to be attached after painting... so that's another option.

 

[rochie]

Looks good, put my exhausts in after painting, for what it's worth !

 

[Wayne Little]

Doin' good!