- Thread starter
- #461
N4521U
Colonel
Aw sh!t....... compressor is just too weak, 15lbs is it's MAX. getting dry spray, clogging. Got it all. Have to work tomorrow, but will try and get some more on before I leave. Just crap is all, not used to it.
**** DONE: 1/48 SH-3A HS-4 - Carrier Aircraft GB
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Crimea_River
Marshal
15 psi should be ok. Maybe too thick?
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
I agree with Andy. My little compressor normally works at around 15 psi, and I thin at around 60/40, always using enamels (acrylics are like toy town stuff to me!).
This might mean you have a slower coverage, but it should also be very smooth, and is great for fine work.
This might mean you have a slower coverage, but it should also be very smooth, and is great for fine work.
- Thread starter
- #464
N4521U
Colonel
Way too thick.
And it stinks.
I don't have a place away from the house to paint, so it's drying inside and Im getting a splitting headache!
And it stinks.
I don't have a place away from the house to paint, so it's drying inside and Im getting a splitting headache!
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Do you have a small balcony or outside area Bill, if so can you spray outside in a makeshift spray booth with a cover that you can drop down after spraying and where the model can dry confined in the booth.
Just thinking!!
Just thinking!!
- Thread starter
- #467
N4521U
Colonel
I do paint out of doors. But it was wet and sticky last night so I had it in the toilet room with the fan on. Its outside now. Looks like I will be a no show for this one. Just too bluddy long to dry. Sorry
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Sorry to hear this Bill you've put in a lot of effort and pain for this build.
Aw man...that's just not fair...
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
This sounds like one of the 'Humbrol Problems' - heavy, sticky paint, rather rubbery looking, which goes patchy whilst drying, and takes around three days to fully dry, sometimes longer.
- Thread starter
- #471
N4521U
Colonel
Just not used to the enamels and not happy with my results. I will give it my best shot to finish. No work today, even if he calls I will go in when I bl00dy well want from now on.
Anyway, I digress. Here's where the choppa is at the moment. It Is close. The door is the biggest thing to tackle.
Anyway, I digress. Here's where the choppa is at the moment. It Is close. The door is the biggest thing to tackle.
Attachments
meatloaf109
1st Lieutenant
It doesn't look bad, I can see some "pebbly" stuff, but , on the whole it looks saveable.
One of those learning things. I have them all the time.
One of those learning things. I have them all the time.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
That is looking the canine accoutrements Bill!
I forgot you normally use acrylics, which dry almost before they hit the model. Depending on thinning ratio, sprayed enamels should normally be touch dry within one hour at most, and fully hardened in around 12 hours. Sometimes, with certain pigments, and again depending on thinning ratio, it can take around two, maybe three days to be fully hardened, but this is rare with good quality (i.e. not 'faulty') paints.
Might be teaching Granny to suck eggs, but it's absolutely essential to ensure the paint is fully stirred before use - the more stirring the better - then ensure the thinner is fully stirred in and mixed before pouring into the airbrush. NEVER try to mix the thinner and (enamel) paint in the airbrush cup!
I forgot you normally use acrylics, which dry almost before they hit the model. Depending on thinning ratio, sprayed enamels should normally be touch dry within one hour at most, and fully hardened in around 12 hours. Sometimes, with certain pigments, and again depending on thinning ratio, it can take around two, maybe three days to be fully hardened, but this is rare with good quality (i.e. not 'faulty') paints.
Might be teaching Granny to suck eggs, but it's absolutely essential to ensure the paint is fully stirred before use - the more stirring the better - then ensure the thinner is fully stirred in and mixed before pouring into the airbrush. NEVER try to mix the thinner and (enamel) paint in the airbrush cup!
- Thread starter
- #474
N4521U
Colonel
I stirred and stirred till I was blue in the face.....
I think I may do the same thing I did with sign painting enamels, add just the smallest drop of lacquer thinner to accelerate the drying. When I lettered cold concrete walls I would add LT to keep from getting runs in the paint, surface would set fast enough to prevent them. But not enough to make undercoats, or second coats soften and run. We called it "a coat and a half" when painting a second coat over the first before it was dry. Like, white letters over red backgrounds!
Likewise, we used a product made by Flood, Penetrol, to slow drying time and prevent surface drying. Just a drop to 3 oz. of paint, this lessened the brush strokes in the finish. So if you plan on painting enamels in your house, doors and brushed woodwork, if you want that glass smooth finish pros get, add a bit of Penetrol to the paint.
Just sayin
I think I may do the same thing I did with sign painting enamels, add just the smallest drop of lacquer thinner to accelerate the drying. When I lettered cold concrete walls I would add LT to keep from getting runs in the paint, surface would set fast enough to prevent them. But not enough to make undercoats, or second coats soften and run. We called it "a coat and a half" when painting a second coat over the first before it was dry. Like, white letters over red backgrounds!
Likewise, we used a product made by Flood, Penetrol, to slow drying time and prevent surface drying. Just a drop to 3 oz. of paint, this lessened the brush strokes in the finish. So if you plan on painting enamels in your house, doors and brushed woodwork, if you want that glass smooth finish pros get, add a bit of Penetrol to the paint.
Just sayin
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Experiment first Bill - the pigments and oils in modelling enamels are of a much finer grade and lighter viscosity than 'commercial' enamels. It should work, but it's just possible that LT might cause separation of the pigments.
One way to check if the paint itself is OK, as opposed to being faulty (or just plain cr@p, as most current Humbrol is these day) is to stir as normal, load a paint brush (medium sized, probably No.3) and transfer this to a pallete, such as a coffee jar lid, give it a quick 'swish' around, without thinner, then paint onto some scrap, laying off the paint properly. If the paint is OK, it should start to dry almost immediately, and be touch dry (but not fully safe to handle) in under an hour.
If it isn't - then bin it!
One way to check if the paint itself is OK, as opposed to being faulty (or just plain cr@p, as most current Humbrol is these day) is to stir as normal, load a paint brush (medium sized, probably No.3) and transfer this to a pallete, such as a coffee jar lid, give it a quick 'swish' around, without thinner, then paint onto some scrap, laying off the paint properly. If the paint is OK, it should start to dry almost immediately, and be touch dry (but not fully safe to handle) in under an hour.
If it isn't - then bin it!
- Thread starter
- #476
N4521U
Colonel
I like it anyways Bill!
meatloaf109
1st Lieutenant
I'm on board too!
Love to see it finished!
Love to see it finished!
