**** DONE: 1/72 F-86F - Aircraft Nose Art GB.

[Rogi]

Try to ensure the best, properly aligned joint as possible and allow to fully set. Then use a fine file to file the joint if needed, followed by a very fine and light sanding, followed by a polish. Any lost surface detail can then be re-engraved. No putty should be needed, unless the parts are warped, or an unavoidable 'step' is present.

I always try to follow your advice Terry but hypothetically if I sometimes attain a very fine "line" that shows through the paint, is this an indication of more paint needed, or not a good sanding job?

 

[Wurger]

If the fine line isn't a panel line ( what means that there shouldn't be any of these ) it may be a result of a wrong sanding and a lack of a putty applied and polishing usually. But also it is an effect of using a wrong glue for sticking mostly.

 

[Airframes]

I agree.
After filing and fine sanding, the joint may look good. But polishing will determine the end result. Once polished, try the 'finger nail test' - gently run the edge of a fingernail across the joint, moving the entire length of the joint The finger tip and nail are very sensitive, and any irregularities should be detected. If there are any, then lightly sand again, or, if very noticeable ridges, perhaps file again, followed by fine sanding and a polish.
For polishing, I use 'T Cut', a car body colour restorer, no doubt under different brand names in various countries, but a good liquid metal polish is similar stuff. Use this on a soft cloth, not too much or it'll run all over the place, and polish vigourously, applying more polish as needed. Then keep polishing, until all residue is removed. Wipe off and polish again with a clean, soft cloth, followed by a damp cloth to remove any dried residue, followed by a final polish.
The plastic should now be shiny, and any uneveness will be visible.
If done properly, the joint should have virtually disappeared. Once primed and/or painted, no joint line should be visible. However, some shades of paint, particularly acryclics, are fairly 'thin', and might need a second or third coat.

 

[Rogi]

Excellent, I'll try this approach on this model Terry

Thank you Terry and Wurger

I usually just putty after my application to make sure, and then sand, then apply paint and hope for the best

 

[Rogi]

Here we go, I got to work and to double check I coated all the "lines" that shouldn't be there with paint to double check if they disappear

I attached the fuselage with glue, then let it seep out as suggested, sanded and any excess (like the center of the tail) I filled with putty and sanded back so it fit flush (done in around 20 minutes drying time with light curing putty, then a good hour of sanding lightly), the bottom fuselage I applied Brasso (Canadian T-cut) to polish it, the polish makes it look like "new" really amazing stuff and thank you so much Terry for the suggestion
Here are the pics:

Sadly this one didn't come out that great so I'll need to re-post the picture you can see the applied putty a bit on the center tail section:

on the top of the fuselage nose, I apply silver paint with paintbrush to double check the seam, then remove it prior to painting:

Heres the result on the bottom, same method:

Finally I purchased those hobby "saws" that attach to the Xacto knife for seam lines, wow, just wow I love how easy they are to use, taking it slowly and carefully here is a bit of testing on the completed bottom half (I used the silver paint in this step and then removed the silver and applied the lines with the saw, I'll run some thinner a couple days before painting to remove any excess silver that remains) You can see a bit of putty that I'll sand later on the rear of the tail.

Hope you guys enjoy This ones turning into a Sabre rather quickly

 

[Crimea_River]

Great work Igor, and thanks for IDing Brasso.

 

[meatloaf109]

Go, Sabre, go!

 

[T Bolt]

Very nice Igor. When I'm working on a seam I hold it up to a light so the light reflects off the sanded and polished area. you can make out even the smallest imperfections that way. One problem I've noticed is that when I use a solvent glue (Testors tube, of liquid for example) and don't let it sit for a wile before I start working on the joint, I can have it looking perfectly smooth and then later a slight sink becomes visible at the joint. I've done this and painted right away with no seam visible after the paint, then weeks later I can see the seam. I try to wait a week now after gluing before I start working on the joint.

 

[meatloaf109]

So that's what happens!
I thought I was just nuts.

 

[Rogi]

Thank you so much T Bolt this happened to me with the I-16 from Eduard, for like 8 months I thought I didn't sand it properly. Its good to know I'm not crazy since there is a huge seam on certain parts of the model.

I super glued this one with Krazy Glue as Testors (in the red tube) has started coming apart for me its really odd I might of received a bad batch :S . Thankfully I didn't have a fit issue, since I probably checked the fit of the fuselage like 100 times before glueing lol I'll start the wings tonight and see how it goes then leave it be for a couple days and see if the same thing is present with Krazy Glue.

Thanks all for the comments and tips

 

[Catch22]

Nice job Igor!

 

[Airframes]

Good stuff Igor, nicely done.
Good point from Glenn too. It's a good idea to leave main joints to set for as long as possible, as a 'ghost line' joint can form due to 'shrink back' of the glue, and the resulting contraction of the plastic.
In the UK, 'Brasso' is a metal polish, intended for - polishing metal !! (that is, silver, brass etc etc). It's virtually the same stuff as the UK-branded 'T-Cut', marketed as a car body colour restorer, used for bringing 'life' back to dull or scratched paintwork on car bodies. So, if you can't find 'T-Cut' or the local equivalent in a car accessory store, then a metal polish will do the same job.
There are also dedicated plastic polishes, and they tend to be less expensive when sourced from a supplier of clear 'Perspex' sheet, rather than a modelling outlet.
A modelling outlet may charge, say, £5 for a very small bottle, whereas it might cost, say, £3.75 for a much larger bottle at the plastics supplier.
With the rising costs of kits and other stuff in our hobby, any saving is worth it !

 

[Rogi]

I've been fighting off a soar throat and throbbing head ache, but I have to get this bird done (plus the other 2 hopefully)

Here are the shots so far

The wings are on and sanding has started and completed in this portion:

Now for the wing root section:

Before:

After (the other side ):

And silver paint to double check:

and other side (there is a small paint "chip" in this photo not actually on the putty section lol):

I've sanded the entire airframe and I'll re-scribe the panel lines tonight, in the morning I'll do a polish with Brasso, and wash with soapy water and she'll be ready for paint

Thank all for checking this one out

 

[fubar57]

Gotta get me some saws and Brasso©. Looking good Igor.

Geo

 

[Catch22]

Nice!

 

[rochie]

nice progress

 

[Crimea_River]

Good progress.

 

[meatloaf109]

There is always toothpaste also... Just one of many uses for it that I have found.

 

[N4521U]

Toothpaste putty????????

Your making good progress there. Keep on keepin on!

 

[Airframes]

Yep, toothpaste is good for the final, 'fine' polish, after the metal polish/T-cut.