**** DONE: 1/72 F-86F - Aircraft Nose Art GB.

Discussion in '#19 Aircraft Nose Art' started by Rogi, Aug 5, 2013.

  1. Rogi

    Rogi Active Member

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    #1 Rogi, Aug 5, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 29, 2013
    Username: Rogi
    Name: Igor
    Category: Beginer
    Scale: 1/72
    Manufacturer: Academy
    Type: North American F-86F-30
    Aftermarket: possibly decals, depends how nice the academy treats me. :D

    I've been in love with the crazy graphics on Mike's Bird for the last little while and this 1/72 has been in my pile since it launched lol

    I can't wait to make her :), I'll update the thread a bit later with history and photos.


    2 in 1 GB Ahhh will I finish this :D lol

    Does anyone have experience with this kit's decals? I feel like Academy's decals are always hit or miss depending on the kit :O
     
  2. Catch22

    Catch22 Well-Known Member

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    Nice, another Sabre!
     
  3. woody

    woody Active Member

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    Nice one Igor.
     
  4. Vic Balshaw

    Vic Balshaw Well-Known Member

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    Go Igor, and if the kit is as old as the plane then may I suggest a protective coat of something like Microscale's Liquid Decal Film on the decals. This should hold them together if they are a bit brittle, also when applying, soak them well until they almost seem to be lifting off the backing paper. I sometimes use tepid water to ensure this.
     
  5. meatloaf109

    meatloaf109 Well-Known Member

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    I agree.
    That is the best way to be sure you don't end up with flakey water!
     
  6. Wayne Little

    Wayne Little Well-Known Member

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    Reckon your right on them decals Igor so don't take chances, coat them as vic said should be ok....
     
  7. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    Yep.

    Geo
     
  8. Rogi

    Rogi Active Member

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    Ok so I sat down yesterday and base coated the bird with a black base coat for the cockpit (the color of F-86F-30s is Light Grey in the cockpit, with a lot of use the color can become a medium to dark grey, older model F-86s have a Black cockpit) during the night I couldn't sleep a wink, so I went at the light grey coat and coated all the cockpit parts with Tamiya Light Grey)
    I went to bed :D hoping that the color would dry by the morning :D
    At around 11am I check up on the progress and found it was sufficiently dry enough, so I laid down the cockpit details and I just finished the 3rd go at the dials. 1 or 2 more goes at her and she should be ok, I outlined the dials on the cockpit sides in white so I could see the interior a little easier (grey does some funky things with my eye sight lol) After the last coat, I'll re-apply a little grey around the dials and it should be good to go.

    Here are the photos so far with current progress:
    Little bit of different tones of grey on the sides of the cockpit:
    [​IMG]
    Cockpit and instrument panel:
    [​IMG]
    Side shot:
    [​IMG]


    I have around 1 or 2 more coats and then I'll glue the last panel in and seal it up :) this is a must finish before the end of September :D


    Hope you guys enjoy :) and thank you for the comments :D
     
  9. Catch22

    Catch22 Well-Known Member

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  10. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    Nice panel Igor

    Geo
     
  11. Vic Balshaw

    Vic Balshaw Well-Known Member

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    Good start!
     
  12. Lucky13

    Lucky13 Forum Mascot

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    Good kick off Igor!
     
  13. Crimea_River

    Crimea_River Well-Known Member

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  14. N4521U

    N4521U Well-Known Member

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    I'll second that........... or would it be the t'ird????
     
  15. Rogi

    Rogi Active Member

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    #15 Rogi, Aug 13, 2013
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2013
    I ran into a slight issue, in the rear of the engine when you look right behind it, should it form a cross or an X shape?

    Like if you are looking straight at the engine from the rear, some photos show a X (majority) and one or two I've seen form a t shape (or cross)

    I'll post pics in a second.

    Right inside here:
    [​IMG]

    should it be this, a t shape:
    [​IMG]

    or an X shape:
    [​IMG]

    Please help guys :D I had a cross originally but then I hulked the portion out because I thought I made an error :D

    Now I'm not sure which one is which :D
     
  16. fubar57

    fubar57 Well-Known Member

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    This is as good as I could find...

    14F86LJetExhaust.jpg

    Geo
     
  17. meatloaf109

    meatloaf109 Well-Known Member

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    X.
    According to a picture I found on Aircraftwalkaround.hobbyvista.com
     
  18. Rogi

    Rogi Active Member

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    I only found 1 picture of the rear and it was an X :S


    I thought it was an X as well that's why I hulked it out (I have a picture in one of my walk around F-86 books) , I'll wait for a couple more replys just to make sure its the proper X one :D

    Thank you Geo and Paul :) any help is greatly appreciated :D :)

    Looks like its an X man and not a T crusader :D lol
     
  19. Rogi

    Rogi Active Member

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    Small update, I decided to go with the X (a couple more members pmed me with their X-men choice :D)

    Here is the work so far, puttied on the drop tanks and sanded away, checking with the silver, the back looks bad, the front good :)
    [​IMG]

    I'll have to redo the application tomorrow :)

    Here is the Fuselage, I usually putty the bottom first and then the top of the fuselage. I think this one turned out ok, just a bit of re-scribing tomorrow and it should be fine, after the silver paint check:
    [​IMG]


    What do you guys use for putty? I have the usual method of leave a bit of glue to seap out, sand, apply putty on the entire surface if there is a gap. I've heard of items that melt the plastic and cover the entire surface. With little to no putty needed.

    I usually have the issue of having a perfect line in the center to what you can see in the fuselage picture, sometimes it shows through when doing a small check. How could I reduce this to as little a time spent on putty as possible? :D Any opinions are appreciated :D
     
  20. Airframes

    Airframes Benevolens Magister

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    Try to ensure the best, properly aligned joint as possible and allow to fully set. Then use a fine file to file the joint if needed, followed by a very fine and light sanding, followed by a polish. Any lost surface detail can then be re-engraved. No putty should be needed, unless the parts are warped, or an unavoidable 'step' is present.
     
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