Done : Bf110G-4, G9+AT, of III/NJG1, Gruppe Build.

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Erich, I was wondering why a nightfighter would have the rack also. But, not only is it directed in the instructions (so what?!), but the rack is also visible in some (very few) pics of '110G nightfighters. The example in the RAF Museum, albeit an earlier one, with Lichtenstein, has the rack also, and this was present when the machine was captured/discovered.
However, as Revell-Monogram have illustrated the instruction sheet with pictures of this machine, it is most likely they have modelled the kit on this example.
The very small pic I have of 'AT' has what COULD be a rack visible, although it is in shadow, and very indistinct - what is possibly visible is the edge of the oil cooler bath on the port engine.
Obviously, you will know MUCH more than I do about the NJG's, but I seem to recall reading somewhere that, if required, they would be pressed into service as night attack bombers? Perhaps that is the reason the ETC was left in place, or fitted even, as I can't think of any other requirement.
I must admit, although I have seen pics of the rack on some aircraft, the majority have been without it. If you think it shouldn't be there, please say, as I can remove it fairly easily (I hope!), but will need to do so before going any further with the model.
Thanks for noticing and querying this Erich.
Terry.
 
Nice work Terry, the revell 109 had the company name and date moulded onto the outside on one of the tailplanes too. 1st time i've seen that. Let us know what the new airbrush is like, sounds like a bargain!
 
Thanks very much guys, your compliments keep me going!
In any given year, I MIGHT build six models, at most, with luck. Since joining this forum, so far I've already done SEVEN, with two more under construction, and a further four receiving finishing touches after standing for ages - in six months!!
It's all your fault!!!
I'll certainly let you know how the airbrush works out M. I found the place through one of those 'flash ads' that appear at the top of the forum pages. The brush itself was on offer at £29.35, but they throw-in a hose of your choice, worth £8, free, and the shipping is only £2 ! They have a heck of a range of everything to do with airbrush work, from compressors and 'brushes, to consumables, such as tapes, masking films, paints, you name it. They have designed and manufactured an in-line , very small, pressure regulator, for those whose compressors don't have one, or can't accept one, which will be on the market in about a month, for around £6 or £7, and their service is personal, not a young daft bird on the 'phone, with First Class Post, despatched same day, or Air Mail Worldwide, same day despatch - brilliant! Don't know if I'm allowed to mention the name here? If not, anyone interested just PM me and I'll give the details.
Now, back to the '110.
Erich, I've done a tiny bit more digging, and found a couple of more pics of NJG '110G4's with the bomb rack, including the one alongside 'AT'. In another pic of 'AT' that I enlarged and went cross-eyed looking at, I THINK there is a rack, only just possibly visible in the shadows. Also, on the top of the rear canopy, there is a bunched up tarpaulin or similar, which is roughly in the position of the Schrage Musik muzzles, and seems to be 'sticking up', as if possibly covering the guns. So, it MIGHT be possible that this aircraft did have the weapons after all.
In light of the pics showing the bomb rack, I've decided to leave it in place, more to avoid possible damage to the filled gaps etc than anything else, if I try to remove it. As for the SM cannons, there's still time to attend to them - I can always remove them and try to make good to the cockpit floor if neccessary. If they are 'binned', I can either fill the canopy openings with 'Kristal Klear', or use the alternative, closed rear canopy, which, for some resason, doesn't have the muzzle apertures.
Hopefully, I might have some more pics tomorrow, maybe even showing the primer sprayed on, if the new 'brush arrives!
Thanks again chaps.
Terry.
 
Well, the new airbrush arrived, so I went about the final parts that needed sanding and polishing, and started the masking. The main areas to mask were the cockpit of course, where I've had to leave off the long, six-part canopy for now; this will be masked and painted separately, and fitted later. The wheel wells and the radiator openings on the lower wing were also masked, using tissue and tape as needed, and this is shown in:-
PICTURE 1.
The whole model was given a thin coat of enamel as a primer, using the 'old' type Humbrol '65' light blue, which was applied smoothly, but with a deliberate slight patchy effect. This is to provide a form of pre-shading, ready for the overall RLM 76 base coat. The other parts to be finished in RLM 76 were also primed, including the drop-tanks and spinners, as shown in :-
PICTURES 2 to 4.
PICTURE 5 shows the overall light blue 'primer', with that super new airbrush, which was a joy to use, after a few minutes practice, and an even bigger joy when it came to clean-up - very quick and easy.
I'm really pleased with my new bit of kit, and it's now clean and ready to spray the overall base colour of RLM 76. I'll be using Vallejo Model Colour, (Pic 6) thinned as rerquired, for the first time, courtesy of Karl (rochie), and this will be sprayed once the primer has fully dried, in about 18 or 20 hours from now.
Karl has sent me some very useful pics of NJG '110's, some of which I hadn't seen before. I'm considering attempting to scratch-build the earlier Lichtenstein antenna, including the smaller, central array, as I wouldn't mind tackling an earlier '110G4, of which I have more references, including the 5/NJG5 machine which defected to Dubendorf, Switzerland, on April 28 1944, the well-known C9+EN, or the aircraft that was tested at Farnborough, then scrapped(!) in 1946, which I also have pics for. If this fails, I'll carry on with either 'AT' as originally planned, or a similar machine with either SN2 or SN2d, the latter being a fairly simple modification of the kit parts.
Thanks again for your interest and input.
Terry.
 

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Thanks chaps! Dan, yes, there was a choice of a fixed bowl, or the adjustable one, which, as you've seen, is also detachable. Apart from being useful when having to spray at an angle, when the bowl can be tilted to suit, it really makes life easier when it comes to cleaning. It does cause a slight problem for me though as, due to my knackered hands, it's slightly off balance, as I'm unable to use my index finger. But I've found the answer in an accessory, a 'pistol grip' in-line moisture trap and pressure regulator, which I'll get in a couple of weeks.
 
Thanks very much guys, appreciated as always.
Karl, I've just done a couple of coats of the Vallejo RLM76, over the top of the 'old' Humbrol 65 I used as a primer. After my less than happy experience with Tamiya acrylics, I have to say that the Vallejo Model Colour is fantastic!
I messed about with thinning ratios, and it seems to work well even when I got it wrong! Spraying was a joy, and clean up a piece of p*ss!
I did mess up on the final coat, on the underside of one wing. But that was my fault, as I had a break for an hour, and forgot to drain off and re-mix. It's only left a sort of mottled whitish effect, and I can easily correct that.
I've had to get some Tamiya paints to mix the RLM75, as I would have had to pay the same again in postage to have the Vallejo 74 and 75 sent mail order. But, Iris is going to see if she can stock Vallejo, as a few of her regular customers have complained about - guess what? Humbrol paint!
I bought a tin of the standard Humbrol No.11 Silver today, and it bears sod all relationship to the actual shade of the original, looking more like a metal flake silver grey!
Anyway, here's a couple of pics of the RLM 76 sprayed on. It's gone on beautifully, although it still looks a bit light to me. But I'm not falling for that, as it'll tone down a lot when the mottle goes on, and more so with the clear coats.
Thanks again chaps, and Karl, check your e-mails!
Terry.
 

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Looks spot on old bean...! I prefer the ready thinned Vallejo's, the black lid(?) ones....
Have a few of the Model Color as well though....how do you thin them btw, 1/1 or 1/2?
 

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