- Thread starter
- #101
Catch22
Major
Hehe I'll take some today. It's been too cold to spray anything, so not a lot's been done.
Done : Fw190D-9 ll> Stab./JG2 Gruppe Build
- Thread starter Catch22
- Start date
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Heinz
Captain
Look foward to em mate!
Lucky13
Forum Mascot
Piccies?
The camera's frozen....we have to wait till it thaws out...
- Thread starter
- #105
Catch22
Major
You were close Wayne!
I went to use it and whoever used it last didn't charge the battery...
I went to use it and whoever used it last didn't charge the battery...
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Battery? You mean clockwork cameras are out of date then?
- Thread starter
- #107
Catch22
Major
Yessir! At least out here!
Here are some pictures! As you can see, the yellow bled through the tape, so I need to repaint the white. It's supposed to be in the positives for temperatures tomorrow, so hopefully I can spray quite a bit. Ideally I'd like to get the white fixed and Lichtblau painted.
Here are some pictures! As you can see, the yellow bled through the tape, so I need to repaint the white. It's supposed to be in the positives for temperatures tomorrow, so hopefully I can spray quite a bit. Ideally I'd like to get the white fixed and Lichtblau painted.
Ah!! that sucks Catch.....even if the masking tape is not stuck down perfectly make sure you make light even passes over the area you want to do, then do another section on the other side and then back again, gives the paint a little time to dry.... and build it up gradually. The paint normally will only run if you apply a bit too much too quick...then it finds places to spoil your fun....
Lucky13
Forum Mascot
That's Murphy at it again....
- Thread starter
- #111
Catch22
Major
Yeah, I THOUGHT it was smooth, but apparently it wasn't. Since I have to re-paint it, I may sand it a little bit today, depending on time. I'll try to follow your advice Wayne!
No worries mate! Good luck!
- Thread starter
- #113
Catch22
Major
Thank you sir!
lesofprimus
Brigadier General
If I can add a question Cory, why is there white splatter/specks on the wings and fuselage???
U may be applying too much paint out the end of ur airbrush, cause Ive never that on any of the models Ive done before.....
U may be applying too much paint out the end of ur airbrush, cause Ive never that on any of the models Ive done before.....
- Thread starter
- #116
Catch22
Major
I have no idea Dan haha. I can barely use the thing. It's just spray over really, but you're probably right, as I can't really do anything fine with it.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Kepp it up Cory - have a bit of practice on some card or a 'scrap' model - the do as Wayne advised. With the tape, when it's in position, run the back of your fingernail down the edge; this will seal it down, and you should be able to 'feel' any imperfection. If in doubt, check it with a magnifying glass; sounds a bit OTT, but better than making a ****-up later. Those main wing-root joints - run a mix of clear varnish and talcum powder into them, and they'll seal up and disappear, and probably won't need sanding.
Looking forward to the next bit mate.
Terry.
Looking forward to the next bit mate.
Terry.
Heinz
Captain
Looking good mate!
- Thread starter
- #119
Catch22
Major
Thanks guys!
I'll keep that in mind Terry, but what kind of clear varnish do you mean?
I'll keep that in mind Terry, but what kind of clear varnish do you mean?
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
You can use Johnson's Klear/Future, which works quite well for a 'thin' mix, but I normally find that an enamel gloss varnish is better. It'll take a little longer to set, but not as long as varnish on its own, as the talc acts as a hardener. I'd suggest the latter for those joints. Apply it with a brush, into the joint, wiping off any excess with a tissue, then LEAVE IT! Once it's hard, then, if needed, a light sanding will do the business. Use the folded edge of fine wet dry, used wet, and sand gently. It shouldn't take much, and you'll find the joint is smooth and perfect. Use an old brush BTW, as it will be difficult to clean it thoroughly afterwards.
If unable to get/use varnish, then Wojtek's method is just as good, using light grey matt paint, preferably enamel, but acrylic should also work. I prefer varnish, as it tends to dry smoother, but the advantage with the paint is, you can see any imperfections or depressions immediately, and can re-coat as you go along. BUT, don't try to do it in one thick coat - it's better to have to repeat the exercise, than have a ridge to cope with! And, as with most modelling techniques, if in doubt, try it out! In other words, have a go on something unimportant first, if you are not sure what you are doing.
Cheers mate, good luck.
Terry.
If unable to get/use varnish, then Wojtek's method is just as good, using light grey matt paint, preferably enamel, but acrylic should also work. I prefer varnish, as it tends to dry smoother, but the advantage with the paint is, you can see any imperfections or depressions immediately, and can re-coat as you go along. BUT, don't try to do it in one thick coat - it's better to have to repeat the exercise, than have a ridge to cope with! And, as with most modelling techniques, if in doubt, try it out! In other words, have a go on something unimportant first, if you are not sure what you are doing.
Cheers mate, good luck.
Terry.
