**** DONE: Spitfire Mk. Vb Trop. BS231 “D” of No 452 Sqn defending Darwin .

[N4521U]

I'm curious, are you making resin parts in order to remove the seem lines and or make the control surfaces moveable?

Moveable. I find it easier to do it this way than to try and cut the parts out and the repair is all. No other reason, other than just the doing of it.

 

[vikingBerserker]

This really has some serious potential for me. Where do you buy your stuff from?

 

[N4521U]

This really has some serious potential for me. Where do you buy your stuff from?

I'm in Australia, so my source wouldn't be of much good to you. I think if you look at Squadron, or even Micro Mark. I think they have the same stuff. I learned to use this material when I was in a modeling group in San Jose at the Reed Air Port maybe 14 years ago. It's not difficult to use. The best tip I can give is in measuring volume. If you measure length times width times depth in mm, not inches, the product would transfer directly into ml's.

 

[vikingBerserker]

Thanks!

 

[Airframes]

David, most artist's supplies / craft stores stock the resin, hardener and silicone for the moulds. Other materials, such as 'Plasticine' modelling clay, can also be used for making some moulds too.

 

[N4521U]

I now have pictures, and diagrams, good ones, of the top of the "C" wing as it differed from the "B" wing. So I have taken away the blister for the landing gear wheel. Will have to enlarge and reposition the blister for the gun. Plug one cannon and reposition the other. And, add a new access panel..... easy peasy.

 

[vikingBerserker]

David, most artist's supplies / craft stores stock the resin, hardener and silicone for the moulds. Other materials, such as 'Plasticine' modelling clay, can also be used for making some moulds too.

Thanks Terry!

 

[N4521U]

Well I am doing the mod of B wing humps to C wing. I've removed the wheel hump. The first pic I had my electrical tape cut out to file down the hump. The white styrene to the right is the shape of the new C cannon hump. Second pic shows I didn't plane the removal very well so I had to fill the hole, it's recessed at the back. wing on right I have pre-filled the recess. The green glob is lots of putty on the styrene piece to shape. I will make a mold and cast two pieces. Reason being the cast is removed when still pliable. I can lay this on the wing to conform to the curve, no fuss and both will be the same.

 

[N4521U]

After I got into doing all this, just for a moment, I wondered what the Hell I've gotten myself into doing this time! In this photo, is my model, my mold, a part and one sitting in place on the wing. So far so good. Now to fill panel lines, and scribe new ones. It goes on, and on......

 

[Crimea_River]

Nice work Bill.

 

[vikingBerserker]

Nicely done!

 

[Airframes]

Looking good Bill.

 

[Wurger]

I echo the post above.

 

[A4K]

Great work Bill! I have to learn casting myself...

 

[N4521U]

Thanks guys.

A4, it's not that difficult. Make a box, suspend the part in it, pour in the mold material, remove after setting, pour in the cast mtrl, pull out the part!

I guess I do think outside the box.... I have a calligraphy background, used to teach it in adult education in the States as well. Used to cut quills for writing. The beauty of them is they dispense solids and liquids together. so I thought, bugger, you can't use a brush to put down lines of filler, so I cut a quill and used it! Just dipped it into the jar, just the very tip, and fill the panel lines. No big globs. Easy.

 

[LDSModeller]

Bill, That's some cool stuff, you have given me
some ideas for a Mk I Spitfire to turn into
a Mk Ib.

Look forward to the rest of your build

Thanks

Alan

 

[Vic Balshaw]

I love these smart little tips, good one bill, all I need now is a big parrot.................

 

[vikingBerserker]

I have a calligraphy background, used to teach it in adult education in the States as well. Used to cut quills for writing. The beauty of them is they dispense solids and liquids together. so I thought, bugger, you can't use a brush to put down lines of filler, so I cut a quill and used it! Just dipped it into the jar, just the very tip, and fill the panel lines. No big globs. Easy.

I'm curious, have you ever tried using the quill to paint fine details such as control panels? I need an untra fine brush and thinking this might have a possibility.

 

[N4521U]

I think rather than trying run down a goose or black swan for a flight feather as a quill, try using an old steel pen nib. The kind you insert into the handle. Crow Quill is the finest nib for pen and ink drawing. But there are larger ones in a good art supply store. Cheap enough to give a go.

 

[N4521U]

I thought I would post one LAST molding and casting method I used for the blisters. They weren't to my liking, so I finished one of the casts, a little shorter in length, a little rounder on the top. I made a new mold. One picture shows how I rolled some modeling clay to a fixed thickness between two pieces of PVC, 10mm or about 1/2" thick. Used a spray can to roll out the clay, then cut into strips. Then I stuck the part down with double sided sticky tape, the thin clear stuff. Arranged the clay around the part as a box, and filled it with silicon mold. Let this set, removed the part and with the mold in it's back, filled with the resin mix, you can see the flash glare on the puddle. Let this set, bingo duplicate part.