Introduction
Photoetched details are small pieces of steel, brass or copper, etched with various chemicals or burt with a laser (the latter can provide 3D parts, and are very realistic). Because plastic is fragile, it can not be made thin enough to represent chains, gun sights, etc. Photoetched details are used by just about all long-time modellers to ive a very realistis finish. The details themselve are no wonder, and proper use is required to give a good look.
Seperating
The photoetched details are attached to a fret, the same way the plastic is attached to the sprue. The best way to cut them lose is to use a rounded knife blade (I use a no. 10 blade). They must be cut on a hard surface, such as a steel or glass plate, or a cheramic tile, or else they will bend. First, cut about 0.5 mm. from the part, and the remove the remaining fret with a pin file or knife.
Bending
Drawing explaining how to get sharp edges while bending photo etched parts Photoetched details often need to be bended, in order to give the appearence of crates, fastening clips, etc. Because the metal is so thin, repeated bending will cause the metal to break. Especially steel will easily break. Heating the piece with a flame first will make the part softer, thus making it possible to bend the part more, but will also make it more likely to bend in the wrong place. Obviously, the heating should be done carefully, so as to not melt the metal.
To bend a part correctly is probably the hardest thing about photoetched details. The best way to do it is to place the part on the edge of your steel plate/glass plate/cheramic tile, place one straight (no. 11) scalpel blade or the blade from a stanley knife on top of one side of the photoetched part (with the sharp edge of the blade along the line that need to be bended), and another no. 11 or stanley knife blade under the other side in the same manner. Then, lift the lower blade to the required angle, while holding upper blade steady. This should give you a sharp edge.
Attaching
When attaching the part, it must be completely free of grease and smudge, so whas it in a small dish (preferred over a bowl or cup, as the parts can be handeled better) with some whasing detergent.
As for glue, there are two types of glue you can use: Cyanoacrylate glue (superglue), or epoxy glue (5 minute is best). The cyanoacrylate glue has different thicknesses, from gel to water-like. The epoxy glue is a two component glue, which must be blended (use gloves) before use, and then applied. Only blend as much as you will need at a time. Is has, as opposed to superglue, no 'bite' on plastic, thus giving a weaker bond (the bond will rarely be stressed, though, so this is unimportant). I find it hard to apply a small amount of this glue, but for very smal and complex parts, it is good, as it is sticky enough to hold the part in place, but it will not glue your fingers to the model. For a thinner consistense you can thin the epoxy glue with water.
The superglue is used directly from the container (although it is better to take a little out on a piece of scrap plastic), and applyed with a toothpick, a piece of this copper wire or (the moethod I prefer) a piece of streched sprue. Only aply the amount of a needle head at a time, or you will not be able to control the part. I prefer the thin type, as it can be applyed while the two parts are held together, after which the glue will run into all the small cracks.
Painting
Painting the photoetched details is done as painting the rest of your model. It might be a good idea to use a primer, but it is not essential.
To find out which methods you like the best, buy an inexpensive photoetched kit, and try it on an old model. After a model or two, you will wonder how you could ever do without photo etch.