loos real nice Vic, hope the canopy turns out alright...
**** DONE: 1/48 Arado AR 196-A2 - Seaplanes / Floatplanes of WWII
- Thread starter Vic Balshaw
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #142
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Thanks Bill, Wayne.
Hey Mike, I didn't realise, if it's a couple of Swastikas you need for this little chap, just email me your details and they'll be on their way
Hey Mike, I didn't realise, if it's a couple of Swastikas you need for this little chap, just email me your details and they'll be on their way
Wildcat
Major
Man that's looking really nice Vic!!
Crimea_River
Marshal
Shame about the canopy Vic. Rest looks great.
mikewint
Captain
Vic and Bill thanks both of you for your offer but I can't imagine what postal charges must be coming from Downunderland. I too had left-over Swases from an old 109 kit and they were also cut in half. Did not understand why til I looked at the rudder and it has a horizontal as well as vertical component. Half the Swas is on the bottom of the horizontal and half on top. When I put the Swas on the tail of the Arado it was canted the wrong way. Trying to move it I tore it so...back to digging through old kits.
Vic, how do you polish a plastic canopy? Even 1200 grit leaves scratches. I always put a heavy coat of Future on first hopefully to protect the canopy. Though I am now using that Testors Clear glue, the stuff you can make windows with, that way if I slobber up it dries clear, hopefully. In the past I used Future itself as a canopy glue. Not much of a hold but then very little stress on the canopy.
Vic, how do you polish a plastic canopy? Even 1200 grit leaves scratches. I always put a heavy coat of Future on first hopefully to protect the canopy. Though I am now using that Testors Clear glue, the stuff you can make windows with, that way if I slobber up it dries clear, hopefully. In the past I used Future itself as a canopy glue. Not much of a hold but then very little stress on the canopy.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Mike you can fix the scratches by use of progressively fine sandpapers. Terry will tell you that he finishes with some stuff you can get in England called "T-Cut" which is a polish for dull auto finished but I've not had to go that far. I've used toothpaste though. Once you polish with paper that's say 1200 girt or finer, it will still look foggy but a dip in Future at this point will bring it back to good-as-new condition.
Putting Future on before gluing does hlep with fogging if CA glue is used on clear parts but, like you, I use the Testors Clear Parts Cement now.
Putting Future on before gluing does hlep with fogging if CA glue is used on clear parts but, like you, I use the Testors Clear Parts Cement now.
- Thread starter
- #148
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Yes Mike, Andy is correct, progressive sanding finished of with a car cutting polish and a very soft cotton bud, then the dip into future. I have a set of sanding buds (see pic) which range from 100MX through to 12,000, no this is not a misprint, it is 12,000. Believe me, they take the pain out of clear plastic scratches, but I still like to make a noise about it.
Here is my local link and the pic of the buds which are all colour coded with the 100MX on the right.
Here's my local link
Micro-Mesh Polishing Swab 3" Variety pack | The Sandpaper Man
Note to self…….check out this tester clear cement.
Here is my local link and the pic of the buds which are all colour coded with the 100MX on the right.
Here's my local link
Micro-Mesh Polishing Swab 3" Variety pack | The Sandpaper Man
Note to self…….check out this tester clear cement.
parsifal
Colonel
Vic looks terrific. I hope you get the canopy sorted, if not, was wondering if anyone like pavla has replacement canopies....
- Thread starter
- #150
Vic Balshaw
Major General
We'll be right thanks Michael, its back on the bird now, but this time I used carpenters white glue. By morning it should be set rock solid.
May have to get me some of them polishing do-dads....
- Thread starter
- #152
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Worth their weight in gold Wayne.
N4521U
Colonel
The Humbrol in the yellow tube does not fog the clear Vic.
Them sticks cost a heap!
- Thread starter
- #155
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Thanks for looking in all you good folks and thanks for the helpful and favourable comments.
Following little stints of modelling today in the hanger, I can say the Ar 196 is almost done. Just a couple more things need some attention and she will be consigned to the collection.
I'm having a bit of trouble getting the glossy shine off. I've given it a couple of coats of Micro Mat to no effect, I've even got the powder puff onto it but that pesky glean of sparky shine will not go away. So good people, suggestions please folks, no matter how outrageous.
Here's a few pick of where were at:
Following little stints of modelling today in the hanger, I can say the Ar 196 is almost done. Just a couple more things need some attention and she will be consigned to the collection.
I'm having a bit of trouble getting the glossy shine off. I've given it a couple of coats of Micro Mat to no effect, I've even got the powder puff onto it but that pesky glean of sparky shine will not go away. So good people, suggestions please folks, no matter how outrageous.
Here's a few pick of where were at:
parsifal
Colonel
man that looks good vic. My suggestion about the shine. Dont stress about it. it looks fine to me....
N4521U
Colonel
Wow Vic, vurrrrry niceh!
looks good Vic
- Thread starter
- #159
Vic Balshaw
Major General
Many thanks Michael, Bill and Karl, much appreciated.
N4521U
Colonel
Actually, I missed the question. I use Tamiyas rattle can clears. There is a Semi-Gloss you could try. The Flat is dead flat. Light coats. I'd send you mine, but PO will not accept it I think.
