Done : Oblt. Klaus Faber, Fw190D-9 "Red 13", JV44 Gruppe Build...

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Thanks Dan, appreciated! Having a hard time keeping tracks with you here, your Dora-9 will be a stunning looking model when finished!

Thanks C-Man....much obliged!
 
Right....been doing fannying about today, with some test fitting.

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Now, how should I solve this minor problem...? I thought that I could by gluing the wings together and keep themup with tape, but looking at it, the wing dihedral became a tad wee bit too positive. I'll post a pic later, when things have dried properly to show you.

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Putty the best solution maybe? :confused:
 
I had that problem myself, and I'm not good enough at putty to try. There's just so much detail around there. Personall, I'm gonna leave mine as the paint colours are dark near there and it won't be that noticeable.
 
Jan use a liquide putty for that.Also you can use Superglue but you need a liquide called "Debonder" additionally which is a kind of cyanoacrylate glue remover.
 
Bl*sted, b*ll*cks and a hairy donkeys *rse....! Wing came off while tooling around, bent one wing cannon and broke the other straight off...:(
Thinking of replacing both with fine tubing.... You lot have any suggestions as to where to go for fine brass tubes etc in suitable dimensions for the wingroot cannons of the Dora-9 and others?
 
Sorry to hear that Jan! You could maybe cut down a small syringe tip for the cannon barrels? Or carefully remove the wires from a thin diameter (but fairly rigid) electical wire, and use the hollowed insulation for them.
As for the wing-root gap, I use either liquid cement, white woodworking glue (PVA - Polyvinyl acrylate), stretched sprue melted in liquid cement, or thin plastic sheet wedges to fill them, depending on size of gap. I only use putty if I have to (like now with the Me 163 panel lines), in which a thin wash of nail polish remover helps confine it to the required area, or atleast a waxing with Tamiya compound when it's dried will clean it up nicely too.
 

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