many congratulations Dogsbody, looks great in the pictures so i'm sure it looks even better in the flesh.
H.P. Halifax B.MkIII Dedication.
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Crimea_River
Marshal
Fantastic job Terry. Shame you had to cram in so much at the end but the end result sure doesn't show any evidence of rushing. Hope you get some sleep!
parsifal
Colonel
well done. Great result for all that hard work
A4K
Brigadier General
Terry - just beauty mate! No wonder Mike looks so pleased!
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- #425
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thank you all very much indeed, I'm honoured. Seems strange not having bits and pieces and Halifax references spread all over the place now!
I've received some further additions for the background story, so I'll be up-dating the PDF again very soon. Also, after talking to a friend, and a suggestion to Mike, it is possible that we might be visiting the crash site, where a metal detector will be used in the hope of locating any small fragments or fittings still beneath the surface. Once I know more on this, I'll keep you all informed.
Thanks again for the support and kind words - going to have a break for a day or so, before getting to work on the Sea Fury and another commission build.
I've received some further additions for the background story, so I'll be up-dating the PDF again very soon. Also, after talking to a friend, and a suggestion to Mike, it is possible that we might be visiting the crash site, where a metal detector will be used in the hope of locating any small fragments or fittings still beneath the surface. Once I know more on this, I'll keep you all informed.
Thanks again for the support and kind words - going to have a break for a day or so, before getting to work on the Sea Fury and another commission build.
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- #426
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Here's the up-dated PDF of the background story, as promised.
dirkpitt289
Master Sergeant
Stunning build Terry. it seems like it took no time what so ever to build. Can you give a brief description on how you built the base?
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- #428
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks very much Dirk, and apologies, as I didn't have time to include the base construction as part of the 'tutorial' element of the build.
The base is done quite simply, although it could have been better if I had time to obtain some additional ground-cover materials.
It's a piece of MDF cut to the required size, in this case approximately 18 x 18 inches (MDF, or alternatively, chipboard, is easy to work, and more stable then plywood or other materials), which was then edge-trimmed in inexpensive pine moulding, which was stained after fitting.
The 'concrete' dispersal pan and track were made by drawing the shape onto card, in this case, the box the model came in! This was stuck down using PVA adhesive (white glue), and left to dry with a heavy weight on top, to keep the card flat. (the weight was a couple of large pans filled with water, left overnight!).
Once fully set, the card was marked out with a pencil, each 'panel' being to a known scale size, or approximation to scale. The lines were then scored with a 'Stanley' knife ( a strong-bladed scalpel will suffice) to represent the joints in the 'poured concrete slabs', and then airbrushed, using a thinned mix of Dark Earth enamel.
The paint, being thinned around 60 to 65% thinner to paint, is easily and quickly absorbed by the grey-coloured card, giving the tone of concrete, and the variations in the tones were simply achieved by spraying heavier, repeated patterns where required. The heavier, more obvious 'flaws' in the 'concrete' were created by deliberately smearing thin patches of PVA onto the card before painting, whilst 'soaked in' oil stains and dirt were done with a grease pencil, in this case a ladies eye brow pencil (no funny comments please!)l, then smudged and rubbed in with a finger tip.
Cracks and chips in the 'concrete' were made by either lightly scratching the surface, or drawing with a HB pencil.
The 'bare earth/sparse grass' on the immediate environs of the dispersal is cut from a '00' scale 'ground cover' paper roll, and the 'longer' grass is from a similar roll of static grass matt. Weeds, bushes and hedges were made from a combination of model railway lichen and various foliage materials, and bare patches on the base were treated to a thin coat of PVA and a sprinkling of mixed sand-coloured and green 'scatter' materials (basically dyed sawdust), obtainable from most model, or model railway outlets. These materials are acceptable and passable in 1/72nd scale, although larger scales really require the 'static' grass and 'tufts' available from the same sources.
The actual construction of the 'terrain' is fairly straightforward, the important consideration is blending-in all the elements, so that they appear as natural as possible, without objects seeming to be 'sitting' on top of the ground, rather than being part of the ground. The hut, for example, was glued in place with 'Superglue', after first clearing a shallow 'notch' around the base, so that the walls would 'sink' into the surroundings.
Hope this helps, and, as far as I remember, this part of diorama and scenic work is covered in more detail in the first part of a 'Diorama Guide' I wrote and posted, some time ago, somewhere here in the Modelling section. If I can find it, I might request that it be made a 'Sticky', as it should be a useful starting point for anyone who hasn't attempted this sort of work before.
The base is done quite simply, although it could have been better if I had time to obtain some additional ground-cover materials.
It's a piece of MDF cut to the required size, in this case approximately 18 x 18 inches (MDF, or alternatively, chipboard, is easy to work, and more stable then plywood or other materials), which was then edge-trimmed in inexpensive pine moulding, which was stained after fitting.
The 'concrete' dispersal pan and track were made by drawing the shape onto card, in this case, the box the model came in! This was stuck down using PVA adhesive (white glue), and left to dry with a heavy weight on top, to keep the card flat. (the weight was a couple of large pans filled with water, left overnight!).
Once fully set, the card was marked out with a pencil, each 'panel' being to a known scale size, or approximation to scale. The lines were then scored with a 'Stanley' knife ( a strong-bladed scalpel will suffice) to represent the joints in the 'poured concrete slabs', and then airbrushed, using a thinned mix of Dark Earth enamel.
The paint, being thinned around 60 to 65% thinner to paint, is easily and quickly absorbed by the grey-coloured card, giving the tone of concrete, and the variations in the tones were simply achieved by spraying heavier, repeated patterns where required. The heavier, more obvious 'flaws' in the 'concrete' were created by deliberately smearing thin patches of PVA onto the card before painting, whilst 'soaked in' oil stains and dirt were done with a grease pencil, in this case a ladies eye brow pencil (no funny comments please!)l, then smudged and rubbed in with a finger tip.
Cracks and chips in the 'concrete' were made by either lightly scratching the surface, or drawing with a HB pencil.
The 'bare earth/sparse grass' on the immediate environs of the dispersal is cut from a '00' scale 'ground cover' paper roll, and the 'longer' grass is from a similar roll of static grass matt. Weeds, bushes and hedges were made from a combination of model railway lichen and various foliage materials, and bare patches on the base were treated to a thin coat of PVA and a sprinkling of mixed sand-coloured and green 'scatter' materials (basically dyed sawdust), obtainable from most model, or model railway outlets. These materials are acceptable and passable in 1/72nd scale, although larger scales really require the 'static' grass and 'tufts' available from the same sources.
The actual construction of the 'terrain' is fairly straightforward, the important consideration is blending-in all the elements, so that they appear as natural as possible, without objects seeming to be 'sitting' on top of the ground, rather than being part of the ground. The hut, for example, was glued in place with 'Superglue', after first clearing a shallow 'notch' around the base, so that the walls would 'sink' into the surroundings.
Hope this helps, and, as far as I remember, this part of diorama and scenic work is covered in more detail in the first part of a 'Diorama Guide' I wrote and posted, some time ago, somewhere here in the Modelling section. If I can find it, I might request that it be made a 'Sticky', as it should be a useful starting point for anyone who hasn't attempted this sort of work before.
A4K
Brigadier General
Great PDF Terry! (A couple of letters missing in different places, can say where if you want to add them)
Blimey Terry its fabulous!!!
I know its aready been said by all the other guys but your work is breathtaking!
I like the sound of those Tornados - nice one!!
I look forward to reading the breifing notes with interest
I am sure that Mike was more than happy with the finished result! Your a genius - keep it up!
I know its aready been said by all the other guys but your work is breathtaking!
I like the sound of those Tornados - nice one!!
I look forward to reading the breifing notes with interest
I am sure that Mike was more than happy with the finished result! Your a genius - keep it up!
Absolutely fantastic final presentation Terry, WELL DONE 
- Thread starter
- #432
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thank you very much, Evan, Max and Wayne.
Evan, yes, please do point out where the errors are - my fingers often miss a key (or hit two!), and I've re-read and corrected the original M/S a couple of times because of this, but of course, it's easy to miss some points.
Evan, yes, please do point out where the errors are - my fingers often miss a key (or hit two!), and I've re-read and corrected the original M/S a couple of times because of this, but of course, it's easy to miss some points.
A4K
Brigadier General
No worries Terry, not a biggy. Much better job than I would have done too!
Will reread it and let you know where the missing letters were.
Will reread it and let you know where the missing letters were.
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- #434
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Cheers mate.
Gerry
Staff Sergeant
Just to add my congratulations to all above, Terry. A beautiful job and well worth bookmarking!
Sláinte,
Gerry
Sláinte,
Gerry
- Thread starter
- #436
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks very much Gerry.
fubar57
General
Congratulations Terry. A great story, an excellent tutorial, and an outstanding build. Have a drink and smoke if ya gottem.
Geo
Geo
- Thread starter
- #438
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks very much Geo, glad you like it, and hope it was useful in some way. Got the smokes - I'll have the drink tomorrow night!
Howard Heeley, from Newark Air Museum, has circulated the story to the aviation and modelling Press, and it's already on a couple of 'on-line' sites, with a possibility of appearing as a news snippet in 'Fly Past' and 'Aeroplane' magazines.
Howard Heeley, from Newark Air Museum, has circulated the story to the aviation and modelling Press, and it's already on a couple of 'on-line' sites, with a possibility of appearing as a news snippet in 'Fly Past' and 'Aeroplane' magazines.
Matt308
Glock Perfection
How cool is that for final salutation!
Migrant
Senior Airman
I"ve only just seen this thread - Andy recommended that I should look it up - and I'm glad I did. Superb work Terry, all round.
