brucejscott
Staff Sergeant
Very, very nice Terry.
1/48th scale Wessex HAR.2, 22 (SAR) Sqn, RAF Valley, 1990.
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Vic Balshaw
Major General
Really coming along nicely Terry.
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- #83
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks very much chaps, it's appreciated.
Not much to show yet, as work is still progressing on the cockpit, but should have more to show soon.
Meanwhile, here's where I'm up to so far - cockpit seats next.
PIC 1. The winchman/navigator's seat in place. Floor needs re-touching yet.
PICS 2 and 3. Switches and torque pedals in place. The starboard side collective lever has been made, and will be painted and fitted when the scratch-built seats are installed.
More soon, and thanks again for the kind words.
Not much to show yet, as work is still progressing on the cockpit, but should have more to show soon.
Meanwhile, here's where I'm up to so far - cockpit seats next.
PIC 1. The winchman/navigator's seat in place. Floor needs re-touching yet.
PICS 2 and 3. Switches and torque pedals in place. The starboard side collective lever has been made, and will be painted and fitted when the scratch-built seats are installed.
More soon, and thanks again for the kind words.
Attachments
Like the look of that Terry!
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- #85
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Wayne.
Matt308
Glock Perfection
Sure do Love the seat. Once completed and painted that is going to be some really sharp interior work. Well done!
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- #87
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks very much Matt, glad you like it.
The interior work is almost complete, with the cockpit finished, apart from a few items to add around the top of the instrument panel, and the roof switch panels, which can't be done until later in the construction stages, and the cabin interior is in place in the port fuselage half. Some items of equipment, such as winch strops, 'monkey harness' straps and para-medic gear will be added later.
The main task has been getting the cockpit seats sorted, as these are suspended over the open area above the main cabin.
PIC 1. The kit instructions show how the kit parts are supposed to be used, with box-like mouldings for the seats, which fit onto the floor. The latter, of course, has been removed, so some further surgery was required.
PIC 2. First step was to cut down the main frames for the seat backs.
PIC 3. This is one of the seat bases, which was used to form the bottom of the seat.
PIC 4. Each seat base was cut in half, and the top section turned upside down, to form the seat pan.
PIC 5. With the top now the bottom, plastic card was cut, shaped and filed to form the PSP.
PICS 6 and 7. After painting the seats and the main cockpit components, the co-pilot's seat was fitted in the folded position, which is standard for most Wessex operations. The pilot's collective lever has also been painted and fitted, and the seat harnesses, made from foil, plastic rod and stretched sprue, fitted and painted.
PIC 8. A rear view showing the 'quilted padding' painted, and the main electrical board cover gloss coated.
PIC 9. The cockpit complete, with the map case, complete with wording and latches, Graviner fire extinguisher and cyclics fitted, and awaiting the instrument panel.
PIC 10. A decal on clear film is provided for the instruments, and this was applied over a dark grey background, with the panel coaming in black. The dials were given a spot of 'Future', and the lower panel switches were added from stretched sprue.
PICS 11 and 12. The instrument panel in place. The angle as intended in the kit is a touch too severe, so this will be brought more towards the vertical, but still angled forward, once the cockpit is fitted into the fuselage, and a cowl constructed, with further switch panels, once the fuselage halves are joined.
PICS 13 and 14, The main cabin interior in place, with the wiring passed through the rear bulkhead. Also shown here is the extra support for the cockpit section, constructed from plastic card, just in case!
Once all this has fully set, the rescue and para-medic kit will be made and installed, and the cockpit section fitted, along with the cabin roof, before joining the fuselage halves. The rear cabin frames and tail rotor shaft tunnel will also be added at this time.
Then it's time for the difficult bits - getting the exhausts correctly angled and cut from brass tube, then fitted, and making that longer nose filter.
Thanks again for your continued interest and compliments, and I'll post another up-date soon.
The interior work is almost complete, with the cockpit finished, apart from a few items to add around the top of the instrument panel, and the roof switch panels, which can't be done until later in the construction stages, and the cabin interior is in place in the port fuselage half. Some items of equipment, such as winch strops, 'monkey harness' straps and para-medic gear will be added later.
The main task has been getting the cockpit seats sorted, as these are suspended over the open area above the main cabin.
PIC 1. The kit instructions show how the kit parts are supposed to be used, with box-like mouldings for the seats, which fit onto the floor. The latter, of course, has been removed, so some further surgery was required.
PIC 2. First step was to cut down the main frames for the seat backs.
PIC 3. This is one of the seat bases, which was used to form the bottom of the seat.
PIC 4. Each seat base was cut in half, and the top section turned upside down, to form the seat pan.
PIC 5. With the top now the bottom, plastic card was cut, shaped and filed to form the PSP.
PICS 6 and 7. After painting the seats and the main cockpit components, the co-pilot's seat was fitted in the folded position, which is standard for most Wessex operations. The pilot's collective lever has also been painted and fitted, and the seat harnesses, made from foil, plastic rod and stretched sprue, fitted and painted.
PIC 8. A rear view showing the 'quilted padding' painted, and the main electrical board cover gloss coated.
PIC 9. The cockpit complete, with the map case, complete with wording and latches, Graviner fire extinguisher and cyclics fitted, and awaiting the instrument panel.
PIC 10. A decal on clear film is provided for the instruments, and this was applied over a dark grey background, with the panel coaming in black. The dials were given a spot of 'Future', and the lower panel switches were added from stretched sprue.
PICS 11 and 12. The instrument panel in place. The angle as intended in the kit is a touch too severe, so this will be brought more towards the vertical, but still angled forward, once the cockpit is fitted into the fuselage, and a cowl constructed, with further switch panels, once the fuselage halves are joined.
PICS 13 and 14, The main cabin interior in place, with the wiring passed through the rear bulkhead. Also shown here is the extra support for the cockpit section, constructed from plastic card, just in case!
Once all this has fully set, the rescue and para-medic kit will be made and installed, and the cockpit section fitted, along with the cabin roof, before joining the fuselage halves. The rear cabin frames and tail rotor shaft tunnel will also be added at this time.
Then it's time for the difficult bits - getting the exhausts correctly angled and cut from brass tube, then fitted, and making that longer nose filter.
Thanks again for your continued interest and compliments, and I'll post another up-date soon.
Attachments
vikingBerserker
Lieutenant General
That is so impressive Terry!
- Thread starter
- #89
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thank you David, nice of you to say so - makes it all worthwhile.
Crimea_River
Marshal
Stunning work Terry!
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- #91
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Cheers Andy !
fubar57
General
I tried to find a working jaw dropping smiley to represent the awesomeness I see here Terry but couldn't find one. My next choice
Very well done sir.CYA in week.
Geo
Very well done sir.CYA in week.Geo
- Thread starter
- #93
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Wow! Thanks Geo!
I've got the cockpit installed, and the cabin roof made, covered in pressed foil, and painted, with the static line rail added also.
Been working on those big exhausts, but can't find a way to successfully incorporate the fairly shallow bend without knocking the shape out of the brass tube. The main problem is the overall dimensions - the tube is 8.5 mm in diameter, with a wall thickness of approximately .25mm, and the exhausts need to be approximately 17mm in length, including the part 'buried' in the fuselage. As the bend, at the fuselage exit, is very shallow, about 10 to 12 degrees, there's no way I can achieve this accurately, so I think I'm going to have to mount the tubes in such a way as to give the impression of a bend, and accept it as it is - unless I can find some thin-walled plastic tube of the correct diameter, which can be bent by heat treatment.
Meanwhile, I'll get on with making and fitting the rescue/first aid equipment, before joining the fuselage halves.
Edit: Flash! I think I've just figured out a way of getting the bend in the tube to look right!
It'll be a bit fiddly, and take a bit of time, but it should work - I'll post the result when it's done ... I hope!
I've got the cockpit installed, and the cabin roof made, covered in pressed foil, and painted, with the static line rail added also.
Been working on those big exhausts, but can't find a way to successfully incorporate the fairly shallow bend without knocking the shape out of the brass tube. The main problem is the overall dimensions - the tube is 8.5 mm in diameter, with a wall thickness of approximately .25mm, and the exhausts need to be approximately 17mm in length, including the part 'buried' in the fuselage. As the bend, at the fuselage exit, is very shallow, about 10 to 12 degrees, there's no way I can achieve this accurately, so I think I'm going to have to mount the tubes in such a way as to give the impression of a bend, and accept it as it is - unless I can find some thin-walled plastic tube of the correct diameter, which can be bent by heat treatment.
Meanwhile, I'll get on with making and fitting the rescue/first aid equipment, before joining the fuselage halves.
Edit: Flash! I think I've just figured out a way of getting the bend in the tube to look right!
It'll be a bit fiddly, and take a bit of time, but it should work - I'll post the result when it's done ... I hope!
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Crimea_River
Marshal
I hope your method works Terry. The only thing that I could offer would be to track down a shop that fabricates pneumatic instrument panels or some other that deals with bending metal tubes. They would regularly use specialized tools to do this and might even have scraps that you could use.
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- #95
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks Andy, and that's something that's been in my mind to try to do. There is (or was) a small company only about a quarter mile from where I live, who manufacture parts, and I believe engines, for flying models - a model engineering company, of all things! If my idea fails, or isn't up to standard, I'll see if the company is still in business, and ask if they can help out.
Basically, what I'm going to try, is to cut the tube part way through, where the bend should be, then cut it to length, after bending the tube at the break. The gap can then be taped over and sealed with a varnish, creating the 'curve', and shouldn't look too bad, as the real thing was made in sections, with a circumferential seam, as well as a joint seam up the pipe - see the attached pic to see what I mean.
It will have to be painted anyway, to replicate the different metals and heat discolouration, and the only reason I'm using brass is for the thin wall, and it was readily available. Would have preferred aluminium tube, as that can be bent relatively easily, but the cost, at pack prices, was prohibitive!
Basically, what I'm going to try, is to cut the tube part way through, where the bend should be, then cut it to length, after bending the tube at the break. The gap can then be taped over and sealed with a varnish, creating the 'curve', and shouldn't look too bad, as the real thing was made in sections, with a circumferential seam, as well as a joint seam up the pipe - see the attached pic to see what I mean.
It will have to be painted anyway, to replicate the different metals and heat discolouration, and the only reason I'm using brass is for the thin wall, and it was readily available. Would have preferred aluminium tube, as that can be bent relatively easily, but the cost, at pack prices, was prohibitive!
Attachments
Crimea_River
Marshal
Good luck!
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- #97
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Thanks!
Matt308
Glock Perfection
Terry what about making it in three pieces. The end pieces straight tubing and the middle cut at a 6deg angle on each side (thus giving you your needed 12deg). Know what I am saying? In other words, looking at the tube for the middle piece longitudinally, cut the top an the bottom something like this. The "ovals" that will be created by the angle cuts should only be slightly out of round due to the shallow 6deg angle and like could be shaped to be virtually invisible. Just a thought.
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- Thread starter
- #99
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Hmm. That could work Matt, if I can control my hands enough to do the cutting with a 'junior' hack saw, and if I can the join the sections securely enough. I'll have a tinker and see what happens. 've found that 'Evergreen' do plastic tube of the required diameter, which might work, with the walls thinned out, if all else fails - if I can get some without having to buy an expensive full pack of course!
So, it's back to the vice and saw, and an hour or so of cutting and shaping - oh the joys of modelling!
So, it's back to the vice and saw, and an hour or so of cutting and shaping - oh the joys of modelling!
Nice work so far Terry!
