**** DONE: 1/48 A-4C Skyhawk-Mig Killer - Carrier Aircraft GB

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Thanks all. Two colors on, waiting for them to dry and then do the black anti-glare panel and radome. My references vary on how they looked. The box shows them separated. A walk around photo shows the glare panel stopping two panel lines from the nose tip and no color for the radome. Going to see if I can find a few more photos and majority rules. By the way, the tail color is green. Touch-ups to follow and then gloss for the decals.

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Geo
 
Still love them little things. One landed on the Yorktown when I was on it in the early 60's. Marine, Black Sheep Sqn!
Doin a great job on-er!
 
Thanks all. My last test...I hope.

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Not sure how Hobbycraft decals are going to respond to this little obstacle. I have one decal for a back up(Italeri). If you don't see pictures of the decals in place tonight, you'll know I'm in a corner on the floor finally admitting defeat and quietly sobbing.

Geo
 
Definitely not a picnic, but best of luck Geo.

Maybe you can apply the decal in place, then carefully cut slots with a scalpal (while still wet), and push them down with a toothpick? Any imperfections can be touched up with paint later.
 
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No pictures but there is a small glimmer of hope. The decal laid down okay. I used Mr Mark Setter/Softer solutions first as I have heard the Micro-set solutions are pretty aggressive. It has been over 3hrs. and 3 applications later and the decal is just starting to settle into the panel lines. It is, however, not going well over the vortex generators(?). Past practice has taught me one thing. If you think the softening solution is dry and you want to prod about, DON'T!!! Leaving the model to stand over night and if need be, I'll hit it with Micro-set. All the other decals are straight forward except for the three piece star and bar that goes over the refueling probe.
Thanks for checking in and the advice guys.
Geo
 
Sounds like you're getting there Geo. Give it about 12 hours, and if it hasn't settled fully, then use a drop or two of Micro Sol, applied with a paint brush. let this 'work' for a minute or two, then apply Set in the same way - and leave well alone!
The Sol should soften the decal, and the Set should pull it down. Neither of these products (the original decal solutions) are particularly aggressive, although they were 'invented' long before the advent of acrylic modelling paints, so tests on this type of paint are worthwhile before use. I've used Micro products since the early 1980s, without problem, and swear by them. I now only use the Sol, as I think both products might be the same, perhaps slightly different formula or strength, and remind me very much of a softening agent used in photography, to prevent films/paper sticking together during processing.
When using the 'Set', don't be alarmed if the decal starts to wrinkle - this is normal, and part of the process. Leave until fully set and dry and, if the decal has not fully settled, then add a touch more 'Set', lightly press in place with a clean, soft cloth (not tissue), and add a very small amount of 'Set' again. This should sort it.
 
I use Solv-a-set and hear it's more agreesive than Micro Sol. I also know that leaving it on the surface too long could actually damage the decal so after aout a minute or so, I blot the excess away. Solv-a-set can also cloud acrylics.
 
Cool Tips all :D

And I hope the Decals get in with np later, its a drag touching up decals :S
 

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