Tiger I. Kursk Armor Group Build

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The Tiger is so small that I was thinking of using a 6"x6" quarry tile as a base. The tile would be upside down with the rough surface up, on to which I would put plaster to make the uneven ground and tank tracks. I'll have to think about how to do the grass. The last time I did one of these I was in high school and I glued sawdust to it and painted it. looked Ok and I might do that for a start, but I think I want to somehow do long grass with it. Needs some more thought.
 
Static grass would be fine, or, even easier, and great for this scale, a 'hairy mat' sheet of grass. This is basically static grass already in place, on a roll. It would give the appearance, in 1/72nd scale, of grass about 8 inches tall, maybe a bit taller. Also, there is a 'meadow' grass product available, in various colurs, which would be about 18 inches tall or more in this small scale. Alternatively, use the 'hairy mat', and cut lengths of bristles from old household decorating paint brushes, and make 'clumps', planted into the base, and paint with watercolour paints if required. The products mentioned above are available from most model shops, and especially model railway outlets. You'll find them in the 'Scenics' sections normally.
At the same place, you'll find 'foliage', for groundcover or for making trees, which is idela for makeing scrub, bushes etc. It's a sort of fabric tuft, which you pluck apart as needed, and just fix down with PVA or similar.
 
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Thanks Terry, I'll stop at a craft store Monday and see what they have, otherwise I'll have to make a trip to a real hobby shop later as there are none near me.

Decals on without any silvering and sealed with Future. The carrier film should disappear completely when I spray on the dull coat in a few days.
 
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It certainly is! Bl**dy great job, looks superb.
But I've just spotted something you're going to really hate me for, so once you've read the next bit, forget I ever said it !
The tracks are on back to front ! The sprocket holes should be on the outside, with the track horns between the wheels, the outer road wheels being outside of the horns, the inner wheels in betwen the two rows of horns. Forget it though, it's too late now, without major messing about and possible damage to the entire model.
Sorry !
 
Thanks Chris, David. The tracks really were a pain. No glue would stick to them and when I finely melted the connecting tab together the fit was so tight I bent the rear most wheel and had to reinforce it from the back side. Its a miracle the track joint didn't pop it's stretched so tight.
Terry:evil: Just kidding:lol: I can see that your right. If I knew it before hand I don't think I could have gotten the track on the right way. There was no way I was getting all those track horns through all those rows of roadwheels with out breaking something. I was surprised something didn't break as it was as I had to use so much force to jam them on, even with the track horns on the outside of most of the roadwheels. Terry don't hesitate to say something if you see something like this as I really don't mind and appreciate the help. :)
 
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Don't know how I spotted that Glenn, I'd just got back from the pub ! Sober, I would never have noticed......!
 
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Made the tow cables out of 3 pieces of thread soaked with white glue and twisted. Formed the 'eyes', painted and installed them with small dabs of super glue.
 
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I could not get any glue to stick to the tracks at all (Maybe Terry's Buccaneer is made out of the same material) so I did what The instructions said (Follow the instructions? What a concept!) and melted the tab together with a hot knife. When it has cooled I pushed them on (Jammed them on is more the word as the fit was tight) No glue at all, just the tension of the tracks hold them on.
 

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