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- #41
parsifal
Colonel
not much additional at this stage. Two things stoping me....sick and busy. Hopefully will get a chance this weekend
**** DONE: 1/72 CAC CA13 Boomerang - Aircraft Nose Art GB.
- Thread starter parsifal
- Start date
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- #42
parsifal
Colonel
have made some progress finally, but its been slow. Ive hit some difficulties but Im working through them slowly. Ive joined the two fuselage halves and also arttached the lower wing assembly. in both cases there was poor match up of the pieces, resulting in a lot of sanding and filling, which i really struggle with. Im using a new brand of filler and a new putty knife (a really tiny thing) which I am finding really useful. The material is quite pliable and moldable, and the knife works the material really well and is small enough to handle the smal scale pretty well.
Ill post some progress shot in the next day or so.
Ill post some progress shot in the next day or so.
ozhawk40
Master Sergeant
Yep and there is also a free downloadable guide to building the 1/32 Alley Cat version, but you may find it useful too.
http://www.valiant-wings.co.uk/ekmps/shops/valiantwings/resources/Other/aa3-downloadablecontent-v1.0.pdf
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- #45
parsifal
Colonel
finally i think ive made enough progress to warrant a few phots. ive been crook as a dog for a couple of weeks, and its still cold enough in my shed at the moment to make model work unpleasant when Im trying to cough my lungs up. but the weather is improving and so is my temperament.
ive fitted the cockpit bath the IP, the engine, put the two fuselage halves together, fitted the undercarriage (in the "up" position), and fitted the wings. both the fuseelage joining and the wing assembly has been difficult, and as the shots show, ther is lots of filling. i have had a lot of trouble getting the fuselage and the wings to marry to each other, and ive spent the best par of three days, adjusting, filling and sanding. ive made a pretty cool tool to sand in the pit of the wing and fuselage, basically a piece of pointed ruber on the end of a smal stick, which i can attach my fine emery. ive still got sanding to do but i am beginning to be happier.
Ive not fitted the tail yet, deliberately. i think i will do the white tailed version, and leaving the tail wings off will make masking a lot easier. i can paint the tail planes separately and attach them later i think.
im going to use a method described by Terry for the white tail. basically after making off , apply another coat of white on the top of the mask, to seal off any leakages past the masking and bleeding into the white tail. im keen to test the theory.....
ive fitted the cockpit bath the IP, the engine, put the two fuselage halves together, fitted the undercarriage (in the "up" position), and fitted the wings. both the fuseelage joining and the wing assembly has been difficult, and as the shots show, ther is lots of filling. i have had a lot of trouble getting the fuselage and the wings to marry to each other, and ive spent the best par of three days, adjusting, filling and sanding. ive made a pretty cool tool to sand in the pit of the wing and fuselage, basically a piece of pointed ruber on the end of a smal stick, which i can attach my fine emery. ive still got sanding to do but i am beginning to be happier.
Ive not fitted the tail yet, deliberately. i think i will do the white tailed version, and leaving the tail wings off will make masking a lot easier. i can paint the tail planes separately and attach them later i think.
im going to use a method described by Terry for the white tail. basically after making off , apply another coat of white on the top of the mask, to seal off any leakages past the masking and bleeding into the white tail. im keen to test the theory.....
Attachments
Wildcat
Major
Good progress!
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- #47
parsifal
Colonel
First colours down
Didnt have much time today, but the time i did have i spent finishing the sanding and body prep. im fairly happy with the results, and really happy with how my new sanding "tool" helped.
ive broken the psychological barrier by putting the first coats down, being the earth brown 'base coat. what do you guys think, is this a correct hue or not? im fairly happy with it, but then, by colour sense is about on par with me picking a winning race horse....hopeless.
The brown is one thing but getting the green overlay is going to be diabolical. even the professionals cant agree on that. And for me, there is one additional challenge....ive never done a 'regulation RAF" camo scheme before. I wouldnt mind some advice...at the moment im thinkinking of making 1/72 scalled tempates of the irregular camo patterns and then taping them to the fuselage. Should i lacquer this base coat first/....its a soft acrylic and might not like being taped over....ill give it 24 hours for 'curing and then apply my masks. But any tips on making these masks would be appreciated...
Didnt have much time today, but the time i did have i spent finishing the sanding and body prep. im fairly happy with the results, and really happy with how my new sanding "tool" helped.
ive broken the psychological barrier by putting the first coats down, being the earth brown 'base coat. what do you guys think, is this a correct hue or not? im fairly happy with it, but then, by colour sense is about on par with me picking a winning race horse....hopeless.
The brown is one thing but getting the green overlay is going to be diabolical. even the professionals cant agree on that. And for me, there is one additional challenge....ive never done a 'regulation RAF" camo scheme before. I wouldnt mind some advice...at the moment im thinkinking of making 1/72 scalled tempates of the irregular camo patterns and then taping them to the fuselage. Should i lacquer this base coat first/....its a soft acrylic and might not like being taped over....ill give it 24 hours for 'curing and then apply my masks. But any tips on making these masks would be appreciated...
Attachments
The Earth Brown looks quite good. It should be FS20099 or so. The sample below.. What did you use for sanding? And a tip for future if you decide to apply a primer ot the base colour , attach all main details such stabilizers and elevators ( unless these are split up ). In that way you'll avoid of double painting .
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- #49
parsifal
Colonel
Dont laugh, but it was a pointed rubber eraser attached to the end of a paint brush. It gave me a lot more control and the ability to sand into corners and confined spaces.
The bits Ive left off arent brown. The tail is all white, and the exhaust a red or black (not sure). There arent any stabilzers ofr other major bits to go on the model (maybe the tail wheel, but again, not brown.
maybe the 20mm guns, but im relauctant to attach them, theyll just get broken i think
The bits Ive left off arent brown. The tail is all white, and the exhaust a red or black (not sure). There arent any stabilzers ofr other major bits to go on the model (maybe the tail wheel, but again, not brown.
maybe the 20mm guns, but im relauctant to attach them, theyll just get broken i think
I'm not going to laugh Michael. It sounds good for me. I asked because I'm seeing excesses of a glue and putty at a few areas. So it would suggest that the way isn't too effective. As far as the painting and attaching parts... it doesn't matter of what colour pieces have to be. The main reason for the way of assembling is that all gaps have to be filled with a putty. And then all joints have to be made smooth. Usually it is made by sanding that causes dust all around.This leads to the need of washing with warm water for cleaning. Not removed dust is always noticed when applying a paint and causes bad appearance of a model. Therefore it is important to finish all works on the basic body of a model firstly. Just in order to avoid a such troubles and effect.
To sum up ... step 1 - assembling and putting all main parts together, step 2 - preparing for applying of paints ( filling gaps, sanding and removing all excesses of a glue, putty, polishing, washing for cleaning) , step 3 - applying of clours.
Following these three easy steps you'll get better final effect. I'm sure.
To sum up ... step 1 - assembling and putting all main parts together, step 2 - preparing for applying of paints ( filling gaps, sanding and removing all excesses of a glue, putty, polishing, washing for cleaning) , step 3 - applying of clours.
Following these three easy steps you'll get better final effect. I'm sure.
Not too bad though mate!
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- #52
parsifal
Colonel
Yeah thanks, appreciate that. what wurger is saying is absolutely correct and good advice. Ill just have to go back and try and eliminate the slaggy bits hanging off the model and complete the parts attachment as suggested
But not now my friend. Keep working on the model. You can follow these steps with the next one. One of Murphy's rules for modelling says if you want to correct something done it is better to start this again from beginning. So let it be as it is.
looks good to me
Crimea_River
Marshal
Something not picked up on here deserves a comment. You said the brown is an acrylic and asked if you should "lacquer" a coat before applying a mask. If you mean that literally then NO. You should avoid applying a lacquer-based coating over an acrylic one as the lacquer will quite possibly react with the acrylic. If you primed before applying the acrylic, your brown coat should stand up to masking. Try to use a lower tack tape like Tamiya as normal painter's tape is too sticky and could pull off your paint. Even with Tamiya, I usually remove some of the tackiness by sticking the tape to my hand or clothing before applying it to the model.
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- #57
parsifal
Colonel
Thanks guys. Wurger, before your post 53, I had already (last night), resanded parts of the model, mostly around the wing leading edges, I also sanded along the dorsal area and some parts above and around the cowling. You were right, there were some small daggy bits in those areas. I also attached the tail wings.
Then i read you post 53. oops. I actually think I was better off following your Post #50 advice to the extent that I have. I wont be attaching the prop, the guns the canopy or the tail wheel just yet though. The canopy is the most contentious bit to leave off i think. Im just very afraid of getting either overspray or masking off bits of the fusleage that need to be painted. I feel that i can still get a better job attaching the canopy after the main paint job has been applied.
Sometimes i have to go with what i think is right.
Re-sanding the bits I have has improved the finish, so you were right in that regard. Attaching the tail wings also made sense to me. but the props and the guns are just going to get broken if i put them on now, IMO. The canopy is a difficult decision, but I think I will play it safe for now and keep it off until after painting the body is finished.
Hope you feel inclined to continue to provide advice. it is very much needed and very much appreciated
With regard to clear lacquering of the paint, I was thinking of using acrylic clear finish. It will need a clear finish anyway for the optimal decal application (to reduce silvering and improve application. I probably wont apply it halfway through....the acrylic is not pre-primed, but it is as solid as a rock. Tamiya is really good like that .
Then i read you post 53. oops. I actually think I was better off following your Post #50 advice to the extent that I have. I wont be attaching the prop, the guns the canopy or the tail wheel just yet though. The canopy is the most contentious bit to leave off i think. Im just very afraid of getting either overspray or masking off bits of the fusleage that need to be painted. I feel that i can still get a better job attaching the canopy after the main paint job has been applied.
Sometimes i have to go with what i think is right.
Re-sanding the bits I have has improved the finish, so you were right in that regard. Attaching the tail wings also made sense to me. but the props and the guns are just going to get broken if i put them on now, IMO. The canopy is a difficult decision, but I think I will play it safe for now and keep it off until after painting the body is finished.
Hope you feel inclined to continue to provide advice. it is very much needed and very much appreciated
With regard to clear lacquering of the paint, I was thinking of using acrylic clear finish. It will need a clear finish anyway for the optimal decal application (to reduce silvering and improve application. I probably wont apply it halfway through....the acrylic is not pre-primed, but it is as solid as a rock. Tamiya is really good like that .
hub
Senior Airman
Nice work Michael
For a minute I thought you were using Gravox for Dark earth
Cheers
Mike
For a minute I thought you were using Gravox for Dark earth
Cheers
Mike
Michael, sorry I made you confused. But if you followed these steps posted in #50 it's OK. Just I got impression you would want to give up the model. And it resulted in the post #53.
As far as these props, conopies and other small details are concerned...usually I made them separately and attching at the end when the model is almost finished. It protects them aginst being broken. Of course these are painted and ready for attaching.
As far as these props, conopies and other small details are concerned...usually I made them separately and attching at the end when the model is almost finished. It protects them aginst being broken. Of course these are painted and ready for attaching.
Airframes
Benevolens Magister
Good stuff so far Michael, and good advice from the guys. Just one further addition - anything that is delicate, and can be broken when handling, will be broken when handling! Whenever possible leave off small items, for example, the antenna wires, until the model is painted, decaled and final clear coat. These can be added last, and if required, any local imperfections as a result of fitting can then be re-touched.
