***DONE: Bell p-39N Airacobra 42-18393 "Millie" 350th FG 346th FS Group Build

Ad: This forum contains affiliate links to products on Amazon and eBay. More information in Terms and rules

Hi

Okay - works continues on the build, but I thought I'd share with you some more information I have on the pilot of Millie. Soon after selecting this P-39 I discovered that Al (Shuford), the pilot had prepared an Oral History in conjunction with the University of North Texas about his experiences in service. With the kind permission of both the Director of Oral History UNT and Al himself, here is his interview.

I have posted his story in the "stories" section, so here's the link. If you have a few minutes to spare, it is well worth the read.

http://www.ww2aircraft.net/forum/stories/lt-shuford-alexander-mto-p-39-p-47-pilot-350th-fighter-group-20709.html#post558458

And here is the intro.
 

Attachments

  • Image4.jpg
    138.8 KB · Views: 124
A small update today. First off, I have been working on the cockpit and knocking that into shape. Eduard provide a photo etch panel, which is very good, however parts can be a little "two dimensional" in places. One of those areas is the gun backing plates, next to the cocking handles. The buffer recoil pads are held in the cylinder at the rear, and these are missing, so I added them with tiny pieces of stretched sprue.

I also re-painted the seat dull aluminium, as the manual and other photos I have show this. Added the Eduard etch belts and attached it to the floor. I haven't finished details yet, but it's getting there.

Cheers

Peter
 

Attachments

  • Machine gun back plate resized.jpg
    114.3 KB · Views: 126
  • dash - gun detail added - resized.jpg
    44.2 KB · Views: 127
  • seat and harness - resized.jpg
    77.6 KB · Views: 920
Thanks guys.

Dirk - I'm a total newby when it comes to photo etch. This is the second model I have used it with. You could not believe the frustration and concentration it took to get those seat belts to come together and (well you might ) play right!

Some things are so impossibly small, I give up. Then return to them another day. Half the battle is arming yourself with little small techniques to get the job done. At the moment, I'm having trouble with the very small pieces that require folding. The only way I could manage it was to cut one tab off the item and fold it still on the foil. If I detached it completely and try to fold, sure as eggs, I'd lose it! And I won't even mention what I've stuck together with CA by accident. Fingers, mats, tweezers, toothpicks, dremel, shirt and oh yes - my knife!

I had to redo the rear deck after I mucked up the radio wiring harness with too much CA.

Well - all I can say is if things start getting pear shaped, walk away for a spell and think.

Cheers

Peter
 
Looks very good Pete my PE belts look a little flat maybe I need to kink them some?Cheers Kevin
 
Thanks Guys

Moving on, I've just about finished the prop as the first photo shows. I will finish with some small chipping and a coat of matt. The Aeroproducts propeller's were usually painted a shade of grey from factory, not black, however the photo of Millie clearly has a black prop, so my guess is that it has been replaced with an overhauled unit, which would make sense since Millie was bellied in when serving in North Africa and later repaired.

These Eduard kits have a choice of three different options, so unless building the box versions, it could be difficult to choose which.

The first 166 P-39Ns were fitted with an Aeroproducts propeller having a diameter of 10 feet 4 inches. Beginning with the 167th P-39N, the Aeroproducts propeller was enlarged to 11 feet 7 inches in diameter, an increase of six inches.

So Millie had the larger prop, being later than ship 167. This equates to part C23 of the Eduard sprue.

The specs are as follows:-

Model: A632S-C1
Overall Diameter: 11'7"
Minimum Blade Angle: 28 degrees
Maximum Blade Angle: 63 degrees


Eduard have produced the prop blades individually and they have no locating pins to lock in the incidence to the correct angle, which is a issue for me, as I am too used to making Tamiya, Airfix, etc where you don't get a choice!

Anybody got a favorite (easy) technique for this? Otherwise I'll go the eyeball method to set this up. 8)

Other photos show the dry fitting for the doors. Yes - there is a fit issues as the top of the doors stick out, which has been a common issue with these kits, pointed out in several reviews of the Eduard kit. One maker has gone to the trouble of cutting the doors in half to make them fit! Oh no! Others leave them open to display the inside. The remedy apparently, is to slim down the interior bulkheads, so I'll give this a go and let you know.

Cheers for now

Peter
 

Attachments

  • props - resized.jpg
    105.4 KB · Views: 136
  • door fit port 1 - resized.jpg
    63.4 KB · Views: 134
  • door fit starboard 1 - resized.jpg
    63.5 KB · Views: 125
  • door fit top 1 - resized.jpg
    66.6 KB · Views: 135
  • door fit top 2 - resized.jpg
    60.8 KB · Views: 130

Users who are viewing this thread