**** DONE: Revell 1/48 Douglas A-20G Havoc "Butch"

[Maglar]

Thanks guys. I still have to do some oil streaks and decide if im doing exhaust.

Vic, I find it easier to paint the hub cabs then trying to make a custom mask and all that hassle. At a distance an airbrushed or hand painted area looks the same, and it is on the bottom.

More to come today -

 

[Wurger]

 

[Maglar]

Got the mouth on no problem with some microsol! Very happy over that. Hit it with a dullcote and it seems the subtle oil paint job vanished but the surface doesnt have that plain clean OD look so i'm content.

But, it seems the wingwalk decals were a poor batch as it has blotched silvering. Some would say a bad gloss surface but all the other decals are perfect. Any suggestions on any attempt to fix or reduce it effect? (It only shows up that bright when directly under light)

 

[Maglar]

Lots of microsol and some light chipping and all is well. I got the struts attached (what a pain!) and the wheels on. The nose weight held and I attached some of the glass pieces. Basically waiting on the vac canopy now.

 

[Wayne Little]

Mags....try a pin, a needle or the point of a sharp knife, and prick the silvered area, apply some decal solution with a small brush and it should get in under the decal and help to clear up the silvering keep a tissue handy to quickly soak up any excess decal solution so it doesn't affect your finish, if it does simply recoat it later.

test out a small spot first to see if it will do the job ...and do small sections at a time, hope this solves your problem.

....and good job so far mate!!!

 

[Maglar]

Thanks wayne, even though I already chipped i'll go back and try to clear it up. I tried a needle but it was like scraping a brick wall, maybe a knife will get through.

Is silvering trapped air bubbles?

 

[Airframes]

Agree with Wayne on all points, and yep, it looks the biz do far. As for wheels and tyres, I've never yet masked and airbrushed any - always brush paint 'em. Simpler, and a good 'rubber' effect can easily be achieved.

 

[Crimea_River]

Looks great Cory. I do believe that silvering is trapped air and a lack of bond under the decal so the technique Wayne describes often does the trick.

 

[Maglar]

My vac canopy came.. It looks a pain to cut, and even I have my doubts that i'll get it right.

 

[Airframes]

Just take it slow and steady Mags, following the line of the moulding. Don't try to cut through it one go, rather score it with a new, sharp blade, repeating until it separates. It might take an hour, but it's easier (and safer) than trying to cut it.

 

[ozhawk40]

My vac canopy came.. It looks a pain to cut, and even I have my doubts that i'll get it right.

If you don't give it a go, you'll never, never, know! (Follow Terry's good advice)

To be honest, I've never used a vac canopy either, but I have a couple of kits in the stash that come with them standard, so will get to it someday!

I know this is too late, but I have had good results to applying decals lately using a water/ PVA mix instead of plain water or decal setter when applying them on the model. Usually no silvering at all, as the PVA dries clear and fills without leaving air trapped. I use a 50/50 mix, and make sure to clean up as soon as the decal is applied, with plain water. I used used this first with the DAP Beaufighter and results were excellent.

HTH

Cheers

Peter

 

[Maglar]

Well.. I started like that then took the scissors and made it through. Cut off the extended top as i'm using the kits. Might have whittled away a little detail but the PVA can take care of that. I sanded it down and it looks pretty nice for a quick hack job.

Think i'll be using the kits turret. Just dipped it in future and it is drying.