DONE: Zero 1/24 Trumpter A6M2b Group Build

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javlin

2nd Lieutenant
5,960
1,432
Nov 20, 2007
MS
Have talked about this maybe getting done well work has commenced this evening.This build will have minor adds mainly in wiring and maybe some plumbing depending on time I would really like to get it finished in the allotted time frame.Some really nice details to the seat holders there I will try to catch later and then Trump goes and puts five sink marks on the seat itself these will get some Mr Surface 1000.Also anyone got any tips on Acrylic paints and an airbrush tips?I hate running it through my Badger dual loves to dry in there real fast.What do you guys clean and dilute to paint?Thks Kevin
 

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Looking good! and nice choice! as for acrylics I don't think you should be very worried -its enamels that give you grief (in my little experience anyway)

Although don't take my word - Wayne etc would know more!
 
There is a liquid named Acrylic retarder.Most paint manufacturers offer these for their paints Using of this cause that acrylic paints don't get drying so fast and can be mixed longer.If you want to make a paint going through an airbrush better add some Tamiya X-21 Flat Base.
 

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This is going to be good Kev! I used to have my Acrlyics dry on me too, but just pour a little paint in and spray then add some more, dont fill the whole cup and go, that will clog it. Once it starts acting up pour some water or airbrush acrylic cleaner in and spray but, put your finger over the tip of the airbrush so it "back-washes". After a few seconds of bubbling (air pressure makes bubbles in the paint cup since it can exit anywhere else) fire it again and keep doing this till the backwash bubbles are clear, this indicates all paint has been cleaned out. Then spray the rest out and if its still not clear add some more water. Really easy painless process for cleaning out dried clogged paint and also it never will build up in there if you back-wash. And remember, its only water, you got plenty of it!
 
Kevin, I use an Aztek 430 and Tamiya Acrylics....without trouble, always used the tamiya thinner too even though it is not cheap.

I prefer a specific mix for Pearl Harbor Zeroes, can provide it if you wish?

Are you going to do AI-103.
 
I am thinking of one of these two here and kinda partial to the top one Light gray up front with a white on the back and then the sq.logo was kinda interesting.So I would have to paint most of the insignia maybe and really should not be that difficult?Some help from Paul or yourself maybe on the sq.logo postion some more pics of the pit.I have been looking around and the pit of the 2 resembles the 5 alot but I have not compared the seats and that does some from memory a distintion there?I am only using acrlyic in the pit only so I may continue to brush everything then.I have all kinds of enamels Wayne so if you got a formula be glad to here it.CYA Cheers Kevin
 

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I am thinking of one of these two here and kinda partial to the top one Light gray up front with a white on the back and then the sq.logo was kinda interesting.So I would have to paint most of the insignia maybe and really should not be that difficult?Some help from Paul or yourself maybe on the sq.logo postion some more pics of the pit.I have been looking around and the pit of the 2 resembles the 5 alot but I have not compared the seats and that does some from memory a distintion there?I am only using acrlyic in the pit only so I may continue to brush everything then.I have all kinds of enamels Wayne so if you got a formula be glad to here it.CYA Cheers Kevin

3-143 would be a good choice, now just to set you straight on the 2 tone colouring, Mitsubishi Zeroes were painted in an Olive-Grey or Grey-Green Colour in the FS14202-16350 range and it was a Gloss Paint!!

When the colour faded, it faded to a lighter matt blue-Grey close to FS36307

FED-STD-595 Federal Standard 595 Colors FS 14201, 16350, 36307

Also here is a pic that shows the fading.

Source : j-aircraft.com thread via Jim Lansdale some time ago (2004)

Now the China Zero Model 11 has the two tone scheme due to a tarpaulin covering only the front section of the aircraft, Including only about one third to half of the upper wing so the upper outer section of the wings also suffered the fading effect also!

Now fabric control surfaces were a light grey colour, got to find the FS colour for this?

Also when you mention squadron logo....are you refering to the 3 small round bird-like images on the tail?....these are in fact a Swallow within the red circle denoting 3 victory markings.His victory total is listed at 18.
 

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Wayne, I need your help because I beleive that first profile is wrong. This one would be closer for Masayuki Nakase.

Why I think its wrong,

1. First and formost the kill markings show 3 for May 1941. Masayuki Nakase was one of the few pilots to become and ace in a day with 6 kills when he downed six Soviet I-152's which means his first kill markings should be 6. Latter he gaining another 3 kills in china. He became one of the first JNAF aces killed in WW2 on 9 Feburary 1942. Before being killed he was credited with 18 kills

This profile I think is closer then the one from squadron singal from the osprey series which shows a date of March 14,1941. Something some where is wrong I beleive.
 

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great info Wayne and Paul!
Nice work so far kevin. I now sod all about Japanese aircraft, but is there a posibility that those sink marks in the seat are 'failed' perforations? Just a thought.
 
I think you are probably right Paul I was reading on my lunch break today and the kills the Japanese Army were getting was phenomenal before they experienced the first lost of a Zero.The Zeros range and manuverability gave it absolute control over the skies of China with what would be really a handfull of squadrons.It is kinda strange that I am enjoying some of the research thus far.I like history but usually it is troop movements and positions that get me go'in.Cheers Kevin
 
Wayne, I need your help because I beleive that first profile is wrong. This one would be closer for Masayuki Nakase.

Why I think its wrong,

1. First and formost the kill markings show 3 for May 1941. Masayuki Nakase was one of the few pilots to become and ace in a day with 6 kills when he downed six Soviet I-152's which means his first kill markings should be 6. Latter he gaining another 3 kills in china. He became one of the first JNAF aces killed in WW2 on 9 Feburary 1942. Before being killed he was credited with 18 kills

This profile I think is closer then the one from squadron singal from the osprey series which shows a date of March 14,1941. Something some where is wrong I beleive.

3-170 was ONE of Nakase's aircraft, most likely his primary aircraft in the early stages...Pilots did not always fly a particular aircraft and when victories were scored, they were assigned to the aircraft.

3-143 possibly shows his 3 other kills as he was photographed in front of the tail of this machine at a later date.

The high scoring Zeroes were 3-112 (Twenty eight), 3-165 (Ten), 3-170 (seventeen) and 3-173 (Fifteen) the victories being scored by more than one pilot on each Zero.

Hope that helps to shed some further light!:D
 
I do remember reading that Wayne today that kills were given to the plane and on that you are correct Sir. ;)
 
3-170 was ONE of Nakase's aircraft, most likely his primary aircraft in the early stages...Pilots did not always fly a particular aircraft and when victories were scored, they were assigned to the aircraft.

3-143 possibly shows his 3 other kills as he was photographed in front of the tail of this machine at a later date.

The high scoring Zeroes were 3-112 (Twenty eight), 3-165 (Ten), 3-170 (seventeen) and 3-173 (Fifteen) the victories being scored by more than one pilot on each Zero.

Hope that helps to shed some further light!:D

Thanks Wayne, Its been two long since I studied this subject and really dug into it.
 
Jut thought I throw out some pics of what little I have done.The upper braces of the seat are a nice touch by Trump.Now the side console with the two red knobs was a joke just two small shafts w/o knobs.So I got some scrape PE and glued it in and used the old white glue/canopy glue to make the knobs I did loose one of the little guys like 3x times;aggravation to say the least.With the KI 48 starting to wrap up should start moving more here.
 

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