Thanks Wayne - the article has got Mike's approval too.
A little bit more to show, including my biggest concern of the whole build, fitting the vac-form canopy.
PIC 1. All the small 'port hole' windows have been glazed, using Micro 'Kristal Klear'. It doesn't show very well in this shot, due to the angle, but the windows are clear, and the interior can be viewed through them. For those who haven't used this material, which is basically refined PVA, it's quite simple to do, and the instructions state that apertures up to 1/4 of an inch (6 mm) can be glazed in this way, and I was able to successfully treat the bomb-aimers window on the underside of the nose without problems.
Using a cocktail stick, get a small 'blob' of the 'Kristal Klear' on the tip, and touch this to the edge of the aperture, then draw it out, moving the tip of the stick around until all the edges are in contact with the material, forming a membrane. It will be white and, if too much has been applied, it'll protrude from the aperture as a 'lump'. If this happens, pick some out with the stick, clean off the excess with a wet finger or cloth, and then stretch the remainder. As it dries, it will shrink back a little, and it will be perfectly clear when fully set. With practice, you'll get to know just how much to use to obtain a smooth, flush membrane, and be able to form virtually perfect windows, as well as domed or 'tear drop' lamps and similar clear items, by extruding the material. A word of warning though - don't try to coat it in clear acrylic varnish, as this will re-act, and make the material cloudy white again!
PIC 2. The exhaust collector rings have been painted, using a mix of brown, red, a touch of black, and silver, to give a metallic, burnt bronze finish. They will be given a coat of semi-matt clear acrylic varnish once the paint has fully cured. The 'porcupine' exhausts themselves will be fitted after adding some detail, in the way of breather and pressure pipes.
PICS 3 and 4. This is the part I've been concerned about - fitting the vac-form canopy - as, if I get it wrong, the entire model will be ruined!
The test fitting showed that the canopy will fit, after a fashion, but some packing of one area, and further trimming of other areas, would be required first. The rim of the port side of the engineer's compartment required a little packing, to at least partly close the gap between it and the bottom edge of the rear of the canopy, whilst the top of the bulkhead between cockpit and engineer's compartment needed to be filed down a touch, and the forward lip and starboard ledge of the cockpit itself needed thinning very slightly. The white strip of plastic is the packing, and the lighter areas around the bulkhead top and the cockpit edges are where the filing and trimming has been carried out. Also visible here are the two 'tubular' cross braces from the fuselage to the pilot's bulkhead, added from thin 'Evergreen' rod.
PIC 5. After clean-up, the bare areas were re-painted in the Cockpit Grey-Green, lightened with a touch of white for 'scale effect'.
PICS 6 and 7. Fitting the canopy - Stage One. A thin bead of 'Kristal Klear' was applied around the edges of the opening, and across the top of the central bulkhead, and then the canopy was placed in position, and eased into place until it was aligned with the edges of the cockpit as best as possible. (This was rather awkward, due to the asymmetric shape of the cockpit opening - on a 'regular' shaped cockpit opening, positioning and fitting a vac-form part is relatively straight forward.) Once satisfied that the canopy was more or less in the desired position, it was gently pressed into place, and the glue allowed to almost fully set (about 30 or 40 minutes), before tackling the next stage.
PICS 8 and 9. Fitting the canopy - Stage Two. The canopy was then very gently moved into its final position, relying on the now almost set glue to prevent it from slipping out of line, or springing back to its original position. Being thin and very flexible, vac-form parts have a tendency to want to 'spring' out of position at the slightest touch, exacerbated by static between fingers and plastic, causing it to 'stick' to one's finger. By allowing the first, thin bead of glue to partly set, this greatly reduces the amount of involuntary or unwanted movement when adjusting the part to the final position.
Once satisfied that the part is correctly positioned and aligned, another bead of 'Kristal Klear' is applied around the edges, and also 'teased' into any gaps. which will be filled by the material. There was a fairly large gap, measuring around 2 mm, at the base of the starboard side of the windscreen, where it meets the side sill, and this was successfully bridged, in a similar fashion to that used for making the windows, described above. Any excess glue is wiped off with a wet finger tip or, where access is difficult, by using the tip of a cocktail stick, also wet, and gently rubbing away the excess .
In these photos, the sealing and 'gap bridging' looks rather rough, but, when the KK dries, it will smooth out, shrink back slightly, and be clear. At this point, the canopy will be left for at least 6 hours, to ensure the bond is firm, and to allow the KK to fully harden. It will then be closely inspected under a magnifying glass, and any more gaps or depressions will be sealed with more KK and allowed to set.
Once the sealing is fully hardened ( I normally leave it at least 12 hours), then the area can be re-touched in the relevant colour, and given a coat of matt clear, and the canopy glazing polished with a cotton bud ('Q-Tip') to remove finger marks and grease left over from handling.
That's it for now, and I hope this will be of use to at least some of you.
Thanks again for your interest, and I should be able to post some more progress reports sometime over the weekend - it's a Public Holiday here in the UK this weekend and Monday, so plenty of time to shelter from the torrential rain and get some more modelling done!