H.P. Halifax B.MkIII Dedication.

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Sorry chaps, seems that night became day, without me noticing! Did a ten hour stint on the model, whilst the mood took me, and the fuselage is getting close to being joined.
Even though very little can be seen of the interior in this scale, and even less through the rather thick nose transparency and canopy, due to distortion, I thought that at least some basic interior detail should be added, to avoid an 'empty' look. As usual, one thing led to another, and the details seemed to grow, although what's been added is very basic.
I'm debating whether or not to get the 'Squadron' canopy and nose transparency - they would certainly improve the overall appearance, and allow a little more to be viewed of the interior, but again, not much more. My problem here is my hands - I don't know if I'll be able to fit the thin transparent parts successfully, since my right hand went on strike, in sympathy with my left hand! I'll have a think about it - it would be a waste if I messed up in fitting them and, as it's the diorama which is providing the overall 'picture', it might be better to stick with the kit parts, knowing that I will be able to fit them without any gaps or lumps and bumps. Had this been a larger scale, then there wouldn't be a problem - it would definitely be vac -form, and probably home made.
Anyway, here's where the model is up to so far.
PIC 1. The very basic detail added to the otherwise empty port side nose area. The moulded-in tables for the W/Op and navigator were trimmed back, and used to form the mounting point for new tables, made from plastic card and stretched sprue. A simple representation of frames and stringers were added, again using stretched sprue, and the central floor area fitted, with the bomb aimer's couch on top, both cut from the same plastic card, and shaped and filed as required. The radio (shown later) was knocked together from plastic card and rod, and fixed to the bulkhead, to align with the W/Op's table, which has a sliver of plastic simulating the Morse key. The 'camera' has been represented by a small piece of plastic tube, beneath the Nav's table, and the various bits and pieces, such as the H2S monitor, nav instruments, bomb sight computer , and Navigator's seat were cobbled together form plastic card. All of these will be painted and some detail either painted or scratched into them later.
PIC 2. Not much to add 'up the back', as exactly 20% of sod all can be seen through the open hatch. BUT! Just in case anyone viewing the finished diorama happens to get their head at the right angle, a piece of tube has been cemented in place to simulate the 'Elsan' chemical toilet, which can just be seen through the hatch, and the open 'bowl' of the H2S fairing has been partly disguised, using plastic card pretending to be the walkway. The opposite fuselage wall has a very small amount of frames and stringers added, for similar reasons. I can't see any point in adding a shed load of accurate detail, with all the time and effort that involves, just for the sake of knowing it's there. Consequently, the ammo tracks for the rear turret, and the entrance hatch cover, which folds up inside the fuselage, have been omitted, as they would only be seen if the model was picked up, and held aloft, with a pen-light shining inside. In a larger scale, some of this detail might have been added, but unlikely, for the same reasons as stated.
PIC 3. Up front again, on the starboard side, and again the frames and stringers, matching the positions on the port side, have been added form stretched sprue. The bomb selector and fusing panel was made form a scrap of 20 thou plastic card, the hand rails from stretched sprue, and the folded Flight Engineer's seat from a scrap of plastic card and stretched sprue. The small tab which was acting as the Navigator's port-facing seat was removed, and the area sanded back.
Once the fuselage interior has been painted, the various fittings will be picked out and 'detail' added to the bomb panel, by scratching it into the paint. The MkIX bomb sight will be made and fitted after painting the model, just before fitting the nose transparency.
Note that the shiny, messy appearance of the frame work is due to the pencil marks dissolving and running in the cement - I'd run out of liquid poly, so had to use normal poly cement, applied with a cocktail stick. This will not cause a problem, and will not show once painted - not that you'd be able to see to find out anyway!
PIC 4. The pilot's instrument panel, and the Flight Engineer's panel, were given a thin coat of gloss white and allowed to dry thoroughly. This will be over-painted in matt black and, when almost fully dry, the instrument dials will be scratched into the black paint, hopefully revealing the white paint beneath, which, in this scale, and with the limited view available through the transparencies, should be acceptable. Gloss white is used as it allows the matt black paint to be scratched off easily, without removing the white paint at the same time - that's the theory anyway!(Note that all paints used will be enamels, with all of the interior brush-painted.)
Holes and slots have been cut in the central pedestal, where the throttle and pitch levers will be fitted later, made from stretched sprue.
Below the instrument panel can be seen the roughly made radio transmitter and receiver, with slivers of plastic rod acting as the tuning knobs.The receiver in the Halifax is mounted on its side, to the left of the transmitter, unlike the mountings in other RAF aircraft, as there wasn't enough height between the top of the radio and the radio cabin 'roof', which is also the the floor of the cockpit.
PICS 5 and 6. The bulkhead between the W/Op and Nav station is seen here being test-fitted, to ensure all the bits and pieces line up correctly. On the front wall of the bulkhead, above the Nav's desk, is the representation of the H2S receiver screen, which will be painted later, along with the other details.
All this is rather rough and ready, and wouldn't stand up to close examination if it was in a larger scale. However, as already mentioned, even through a thin, vac-form canopy and nose transparency, very little can be seen, and the additions are more to create a sense that something is there, if only a vague form or shadow, rather than have a totally empty, 'flat' interior. Because of this, only a fraction of the various fittings and equipment have been added.
For those who are new to the hobby, or maybe have a little experience but haven't tried any detailing, this sort of basic scratch-building work is fairly straightforward, if a little time consuming in some areas, and can make quite a difference to the finished model, as well as providing satisfaction in the knowledge that you have done it all yourself. Although I don't disapprove of after-market detailing sets, I sometimes can't help feeling that any monkey can throw a shed full of resin and p.e. at a model, in the belief that it will make it a better model. It might, and it might not - but these sets can sometimes be rather 'over the top', and can also cost more than the original kit!
I had a look at accessories for the Halifax, just out of interest, and I figured that the majority of the parts in the various sets are totally wasted, as there is absolutely no chance on this Earth that they will be seen - even if the model was made as a cutaway!
Some might argue that they haven't got the skill to try scratch-building; well, if you have the skill and patience to use after-market 'add ons', then you certainly have the skill to cut bits of plastic and stick them in the right place, and without someone else's design to contend with!
But, enough chatter for now. I hope that this is proving useful for some, and entertaining for others, and, for those who are trying to develop their skills, try to look at a kit for what can be done with it, not what comes with it, or that it's the latest, all-singing, dancing, bell ringing release from Hamidragripoff Inc .
As long as the basic kit is reasonable in it's mouldings, looks like what it's supposed to represent, and can be built without the need of a degree in Particle Physics or Aeronautical Engineering, then a good to excellent model should be possible, with a little thought, some planning, and a dose of patience and care.
I'll post another up-date soon, and meanwhile, thanks again for your interest and kind comments.
 

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I had to go back and refresh the memory cell as to what scale this is. I was thinking 1/48……………………..WRONG……….

Incredible work for this scale Terry.
 
Terry... just found this, and went through the whole thread. Honestly... I would not have the balls to attempt this. The Rufe was my first plastic build, and trust me, it was OOB.

Great job... Also, the thread is now stuck...

Charles
 
Looks to be an airfix oldie, but sofar you sure make short work of that sparsely detailed interior. Good going!
 

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