DONE: A-20G Havoc, RAAF No.22 Squadron, Kamiri 1944 Group Build (1 Viewer)

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I completed this same model about a year ago.

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Based on the colour scheme from the RAAF Museum Havoc.
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Coming on nicely Keith. I've just got the Boston version of the kit, with the same wheel 'problem', so I now see what you mean. Don't know whether to attempt to fill the treads a bit, or get the resin wheel and dinghy set. Let me know what the wheels are like, and how easy, or difficult, it is to work with them, as I've only ever used resin parts I've cast myself.
 
Nice build petadel! :thumbleft: I hope mine turns out as nice.

Will do Terry, never used resin myself!

Just noticed my GB siggy pic! Thanks judges! :D
 
Cheers Keith, I think the resin is probably the best option, though it goes against the grain for me! How the heck do you remove those massive casting blocks, without damaging the parts?!!
 
Thats what I was thinking Terry, I might need to invest in a razor saw. I have a 1/48 Yak-15 with resin bits and that's what's been putting me off building it!
 
I masked and primed the canopies last night, I made a dogs arse of one of the pieces, the primer seeped under the tamiya tape in lots of places, both inside and out! I've sanded the whole thing down. I'm looking for some Tamiya compound online now so I can polish it up again. I always feck up the canopies! ](*,)

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Keith I have been using a product called MasterMask by Hobbico here of late and it seems to work pretty well.Kevin
 
Sorry to hear Muller! I dont have the patience to mask the canopy then run a chance of having it leak under, I just hand brush acrylic and scape any paint that goes over the frame, then just re-paint the frame until its solid. I know airbrushed canopies look the part but I am no wizard of sanding clear parts if accidents occur!

Keep it going, Im loving it.. :)
 
Keith, forget the polishing compound stuff - it'll take time to reach you, and cost probably three or four times more than the same sort of stuff from other sources. If the clear part's not too bad, you can use toothpaste. I've normally used either 'Brasso' or 'Duraglit' metal polish, but the best so far has been ordinary 'T-Cut' colour restorer, as used on car bodies. Use it sparingly, on a soft cloth, and then wipe away any residue, which, if dried, will be a sort of pale yellow powdery deposit. If still damp, it'll be an off-whitish gunge! Then, just polish with a soft, clean cloth. If you really want to make it look crystal clear, then either brush with, or dip in Johnson's 'Klear' (Future).
To prevent bleeding under the tape for future attempts, once the tape is in place, and pressed down, brush the edges with a clear coat. Again, Johnson's 'Klear' is ideal for this. It'll seal the edges of the tape, preventing any paint from seeping under and spreading anywhere.
Once you've painted the frame work, when it's totally dry, give it a coat of the relevant clear coat. This will help stop any paint rubbing or wearing off during subsequent handling. Seems a lot of work, but it really doesn't take long, and is well worth the extra effort in the end. It also helps to blend-in the framework, to make it look the same shade and 'texture' as the rest of the model.
 
Cheers for the tips lads! I ordered some Tamiya compound from a site in China, before I read your tips Terry, doh! It cost $7 for 2 tubes, fine and finishing compounds. I got my resin wheels too, squadron charged me $20 to post them! They came in a big box with loads of padding and bubble wrap, a padded envelope would have done FFS! So if you want those wheels for your Boston Terry go with Hannants. They are nice though :)

I still haven't got the paints I need, white ensign must be on holidays! I was reading a modelling book, there was PTO P-40 build in it, they reckon Tamiya XF-53 is a good match for Neutral Grey so I painted the undercarraige with this and got the wings finished, a bit of filling and sanding was needed, they are now on the fuselage, more filling needed where the wings and fuselage meet too. So here she is as of 4pm today. (Engines, props cowling are just dry-fitted)

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